Lawn Disease Control

Published on June 18, 2013 in Lawn Care. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , .

We have focused over the last few weeks on lawn care and how to keep a lawn healthy. Keeping the lawn healthy is the best defense against any diseases that potentially can damage the turf. Thankfully, diseases of the lawn are the exception and not the rule, but it’s good to have a basic understanding of how disease can possibly develop and affect the turf grass.

Lawns can have spots or patches that are discolored, but that does not necessarily mean there is a disease. Injuries can occur to the Plant disease diagramlawn such as drought, mowing the grass too short, or damage from excessive herbicide. Those injuries can look like disease, but there are no pathogens (disease causing organisms) involved. But, an injured turf may be weakened so that is becomes susceptible to pathogens.

There are 3 factors that must exist in order for a disease to develop:

  • A susceptible plant
  • A disease producing organism or pathogen
  • An environment favorable to the growth of the disease

Every lawn has some susceptible grasses and dormant pathogens (usually fungi). Diseases do not begin to develop until the environmental conditions begin to favor the population of pathogens or increase the susceptibility of grasses. Environmental conditions can include the weather such as temperatures and drought or excessive moisture as well a changes in maintenance.

There are potential turf grass diseases for nearly every environmental condition. There are diseases that occur in the cold of winter under snow, and there are other diseases that occur during the heat and humidity of summer. Wet soils and high rates of fertilizer can trigger diseases just as dry soils and poor fertility can bring on disease.

So, the emphasis for you, the average home owner, needs to be on the care of grass to prevent disease. Controlling the weather or overall environment is impossible, but there are practices you can keep that will change the local environment and that do not promote disease development.

  • Mowing – cutting grass below optimum height causes the grass to be stressed; mower blades need to be sharp so that they cut the grass instead of tearing it; mow frequently enough so that no more than 1/3 of the leaf is cut at one time; avoid mowing wet grass.
  • Watering – time irrigation to the early morning hours; irrigate only when drought stress is observed and then apply enough water to saturate the root zone; irrigating every day for a short duration does not provide ample water to the root zone, but it is beneficial to the turf grass pathogens.
  • Nutrition – many diseases are directly affected by the nutrition of the grass, especially nitrogen; both excessive nitrogen and low nitrogen contribute to disease, so it is best to apply the minimal amount of nitrogen that is required by the turf grass; potassium is important in the prevention of disease; damaged grass benefits for the application of liquid fertilizers that can be absorbed both through the leaf tissues and the roots.
  • Thatch – a thatch build up of more than 1 inch can lead to increased stress and disease; remove excess thatch.
  • Soil – aerate soil to improve the ability for air, water and nutrients to be able to flow into the root zone; monitor the pH of the soil.

What do you do when despite your best efforts a disease occurs? There is nothing easy when it comes to lawn diseases. Assistance from university extension agencies and lawn care professionals is very helpful. Turf grass professionals are able to identify the disease, identify the environmental factors that have promoted the disease, and they are able to recommend management practices that will decrease the stress on the grass and make it less susceptible.

Lawn care professionals may treat the disease with a fungicide. Fungicides are pesticides that kill fungi, and they can be a part of the disease-control program, but first the disease must be identified before fungicides are used. Even though fungicides are available in many retail stores, without direction from extension agencies or professionals, the use is discouraged as it requires knowing which fungicide to use and the correct timing of the application(s).

Every maintenance practice that you do for your lawn has an impact on the health of the grass, and normally with good lawn care methods, you can keep the grass healthy, less stressed and less susceptible to disease.

Question of the week: Have you ever experienced a lawn disease?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Disease diagram from:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7497.html

Why Dethatch Your Lawn?

Published on June 11, 2013 in Lawn Care. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , .

When we are new to lawn care, we often learn by trial and error, isn’t that true? I had never heard of thatch and had no idea that my lawn turning brown and having no resistance to the summer heat was caused by a layer of thatch that had developed over the years. Thankfully, a wise neighbor advised me on what to do to solve the problem, and it worked! For those of you who are new to lawn care, today’s blog will provide even more information than my wise neighbor did!

photo of thatch layerWhat is thatch? Thatch is a tightly interwoven layer of dead and living stems, roots and leaves that builds up between the soil and the actively growing grass. It is absolutely normal in actively growing grass, and when the layer is not too thick, the thatch actually improves the resilience of the turf to traffic.

When does thatch become a problem? An excessive amount of thatch, which is usually considered more than an inch, can restrict the movement of water, air, and nutrients to the grass roots. Often the grass begins to root in the thatch itself because it needs the water and nutrients that are restricted in the thatch and not moving into the soil. The result is a grass that is not resistant to heat and drought. The thatch layer also can harbor fungi that can cause lawn diseases. Once the temperature and moisture conditions are right, the disease can spread through the entire lawn quickly. An excessive amount of thatch actually weakens turf grass and makes it far more susceptible to pests and diseases.

Why does thatch develop? The soil is filled with microorganisms that breakdown the dead plant material. Healthy soil is filled with a population of earthworms and microorganisms that will naturally breakdown dead debris and help keep the thatch layer from becoming too excessive. Studies have found that soil compaction and acidity plays an important role in the decreased population of microorganisms, so aeration of soil and keeping the pH level at 6.5 is beneficial in keeping the microorganism numbers flourishing. There are also some lawn maintenance practices that can create more thatch such as:

  • Applying unbalanced fertilizers or too much nitrogen.
  • Indiscriminate use of fungicides and pesticides.

Do all grass species develop thatch? The answer is yes, but many grass species are more likely to develop a thatch layer more quickly. Grasses that have rhizomes and/or stolons (side shoots that help the grass spread) develop thatch more readily. Blue grasses, bent grasses, Zoysia grasses, and Bermuda grasses are all species that can build thatch quickly.

How do you remove thatch? If there is excessive thatch, there are machines that can be rented such as vertical mowers, power rakes, verticutters, or dethatchers that slice through the thatch and pull some of the debris out. All of the thatch material should not be removed in one treatment. Many experts recommend a late summer or early fall dethatching if using a machine. There are also natural products that can be applied to the lawn that contain microbes that eat the dead debris. Liquid Gold is such a product that accelerates the natural thatch decomposition so that with time mechanical dethatchers are not needed. Dethatching should only take place when there is an excessive layer build up.

Does mulching and leaving the grass clippings build thatch? It seems like it would cause a problem, but the answer is actually no. Leaving short, mulched clippings does not build more thatch. A great amount of research has been done on this particular lawn maintenance practice, and mulched clippings break down quickly and add nutrients into the soil.

Again, for home owners who are conscientious about natural lawn care practices, dethatching is a maintenance that only helps in the sustainability of the lawn. It fits in well with an organic approach to lawn care management.

Question for the week: How often do you need to dethatch your lawn?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Advantages of Aerating Your Lawn

Published on June 2, 2013 in Lawn Care. 2 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , .

Over 25 years ago, when I was a new home owner, all I knew about the lawn that came with my new house is that it would need mowing. That’s it! I knew virtually nothing about lawn maintenance, and over the years I’ve learned – often by making mistakes – how to better care for my lawn. One practice that I learned about over the years is aeration, but I needed some guidance in how and when to do it. So, if you’re like me, and you’re starting out in a new place with little lawn maintenance know-how, here’s a brief description of what aeration is, why it’s needed and how it can be done.

What is aeration? Simply said, aeration is supplying air to the soil. Holes are made throughout the soil, and these holes or channels allow oxygen and water to move into the soil.

Why is aeration needed? Over time, soil can become compacted especially in high traffic areas. As the soil becomes compacted, the grass roots are not able to receive nutrition, oxygen and water, and the root growth is restricted. When the grass roots are not thriving, the grass will be less resistant to temperature extremes, drought, and it will be more susceptible to disease. Often the grass will thin out and become sparse in highly compacted areas.

Photo of Soil DoctorHow is aeration done? There are several methods of aerating. The hollow tine aerator actually pulls out a core of soil. These power machines are typically rented or landscapers will come in and perform the service. The cores are about 3 inches long and are left on the surface of the lawn to breakdown over a period of time. There are also solid tine aerators that are 3 – 4 inch spikes to penetrate the soil. Spike aerators come in a variety of forms from large drums with spikes that you roll over the lawn to sandals that are worn while you walk. Lastly, there are liquid aerators that have the ability to loosen soil structure and increase the permeability of the soil. Products like LazyMan Soil Doctor™ can be sprayed on or applied through a garden hose applicator.

When should you aerate? Aeration can be done anytime that the ground is not frozen. However, for cool season grasses, the most recommended time for aeration is in the spring when the soil is moist and the grass is actively growing. Aerating in the spring creates a better root mass and helps to ensure that the grass will survive the heat and drought of summer. Warm season grasses can be aerated in mid-spring to early summer. They should be completely out of dormancy and actively growing when the aeration occurs. Avoid aerating when the ground is dry or when it is overly wet and soggy.

What are the advantages of aerating the lawn?

  1. It increases soil oxygen and water penetration
  2. It encourages root growth
  3. It reduces soil compaction
  4. It increases germination of over-seeded grasses
  5. It increases the movement of nutrients into the soil
  6. It helps to reduce thatch

For those of you who are concerned with natural lawn care, aeration fits right in with an organic approach to grass maintenance. By keeping the soil more permeable and allowing air, water, and nutrients to be available to the grass roots, the turf will perform at its best, resisting heat and drought stress as well as being thick and dense ensuring that weed growth will be limited.

Question for the week: Is aeration a regular practice in your lawn maintenance routine?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Organic Lawn Care, part 3

Published on May 14, 2013 in Lawn Care. 4 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , .

These last few weeks, we have been looking at organic lawn care practices, and today’s blog examines the benefits of applying top dressings to lawns. There has been a considerable amount of university-based research on the improved performance of turf with the use of top dressings of compost. Today, the practice of top dressing is used by many who prefer a more organic approach to lawn maintenance as well professional turf managers of sports fields and golf courses.

What is a top dressing? Simply put, it is a thin layer of material, ¼ to ½ inch that is spread over the top of the turf. The materials used for top dressing can include sand, soil, composts or a mixture of any of these. The best times of year to top dress are in the fall before frosts are expected or in the spring after the first mowing. Adding a top dressing is a way to slowly add organic amendments to the soil and improve it without disturbing the growth of the grass. The improvements in the soil might not be immediately visible, but following a routine over a period of several years, the following list of benefits is attributed to top dressings of compost:

  • Provide nutrients
  • Increase organic matter
  • Improve soil structure
  • Reduce irrigation
  • Reduce thatch
  • Improve surface irregularities
  • Add beneficial microbes
  • Reduce winter damage
  • Reduce weeds
  • Reduce nutrient loss to surface and ground water

photo of top dressing for lawnComposted material is easily added to gardens or beds where the large clumps are usually left to further breakdown. But with grass, it’s helpful to sieve the compost so that the large clumps are removed and put back into the compost bin. A homemade screen can be made from 2 x 4s and made to fit over a wheel barrow. Use a piece of hardware cloth that has ½ inch openings, and secure the piece to the wooden frame. The organic material to be placed on the lawn should be dry and easily pass through the screen. Once you have the material screened, you can spread it by using a large drop spreader, by dumping small piles and then raking it out, or by simply using a shovel and flinging the material over the lawn. Typically only ¼ to ½ inch of top dressing is applied. At least half of the leaf height should be visible or the grass may be killed by a lack of sunlight. Except for areas in the turf grass that are already thin with soil exposed, a top dressing should not be visible.

Top dressings can be used to even out bumps and swales. In this case the top dressing may be a mix of soil and composted material, and the depth may be deeper. The area can then be over-seeded with grass seed. Lightly rake the seed into the top dressing and keep the area moist for good germination and establishment. Lawn overseeding should be done when the soil temperature is optimal for your specific area.

Core aeration can be done before or after top dressing, and it helps to incorporate the organic material into the soil. Irrigating after the application of top dressing also helps integrate the compost down into the turf.

If you do your own composting, you know exactly what is in the compost and how well-processed it is. Many home owners find themselves looking for compost to purchase. When purchasing compost, it is important to find a reputable supplier who can provide an analysis of the product. How do you know how much to purchase? First, determine the amount of surface area to be covered then multiply the area by the depth of compost desired (in feet).

For a 5000 square foot lawn being covered with ¼ inch of compost, the math would be 5000 feet2 lawn x 0.02 ft compost = 100 feet3. Usually, compost is sold by the cubic yard. Divide 100 feet3 by 27 = 3.7 yards3. So, for a 5000 square foot lawn, 4 cubic yards of compost would cover it at a depth of ¼ inch.

Many homeowners have replaced synthetic fertilizers with a yearly top dressing. It may involve more work, but as composted materials continue to breakdown into the lawn and add nutrients to the soil the results begin to become obviously visible and rewarding. A healthy lawn is better able to recover from dormancy, tolerate a summer drought, resist a disease outbreak, or repair after heavy wear and tear from foot traffic, and top dressing definitely results in a healthier lawn.

Question for the week: Have you ever top dressed your home lawn?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Photo from: http://www.compostjunkie.com

Organic Lawn Care, part 2

Published on May 7, 2013 in Lawn Care. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , .

Our green lush lawns are where the kids can play, the dogs can run, and a friendly game of croquet can be played. But green grass is hungry and requires a certain amount of food or nutrients in order to stay healthy. With a growing concern over conventional lawn care and the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, many homeowners are looking for natural, cost-effective methods of organic lawn care. Instead of turning to synthetic fertilizers to add nutrients to the soil, there is an easy and sustainable method to add nitrogen to the soil that is often overlooked – clover. Yes, I said the dreaded word! What many people consider to be an obnoxious, troublesome weed can actually provide a much needed benefit to our lawns.

White clover is a perennial legume that fixates nitrogen from the air and makes it available in the soil. It grows all over North America, in sun or shade, fertile or non-fertile soils, and it often shows up uninvited in our lawns. Before the creation of selective herbicides that are be sprayed on grass lawns and kill only the broad leaf weeds, clover was commonly found in all lawns. But, it’s rounded leaves can stand out in a lawn and create an uneven appearance and texture. That’s when it does look rather weedy and is often killed out. But what if the clover was evenly dispersed throughout the lawn and it was allowed to grow right along with the grass? It actually doesn’t look bad, and there are so many benefits to allowing clover to grow:

  • It fixates nitrogen and provides the essential nutrient to the grass throughout the entire growing season. Because of the continual release of nitrogen, the grass is healthier and able to tolerate heat, drought, and diseases.
  • It helps aerate the soil and reduce compaction. The clover roots go deeper than the grass roots, and break up the soil and reduce compaction.
  • It spreads by stolons and weaves its way through the grass creating a more wear tolerant turf. Also, because the turf is thick, many encroaching weeds are kept out of the lawn.
  • It keeps its dark green color longer in heat and in winter.
  • It is tolerant of sun and shade.

There are now improved species of perennial white clover that have much smaller leaves allowing them to blend into the turf better.

photo of miniclover

Miniclover that has been mowed.

Miniclover grows the same, provides the nitrogen the same as the larger species, but with the smaller leaves, the texture blends and creates a visually attractive lawn as well as a sustainable lawn.

When seeding a new lawn, seed with 2 – 5% clover seeds. Clover seeds are small, and can be mixed in with the grass seeds for an even dispersal. Lawns that are already established can be over-seeded with clover seeds in the spring or the fall.

A grass clover mixture might not be suited for every landscape, but if you live in a rural setting or in an area that does not have strict rules governing the neighborhood landscapes, these grass clover lawns really are sustainable and economical.

Question for the week: Would you consider growing a grass clover lawn mix?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Organic Lawn Care

Published on April 28, 2013 in Lawn Care. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , .

For the next few weeks, my blog posts are going to explore organic lawn care, and I hope to offer some viable methods of natural organic maintenance that are easy to implement. Even if the goal isn’t to go completely organic, there are a few well-researched practices that will reduce the need for traditional synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. I know some people can get very intense over this entire subject of organic vs. conventional lawn care. I’m not here to take a side, but rather provide documented research that will provide some recommendations.

In recent years many home owners have had a growing concern with conventional lawn care. Conventional lawn care would be defined as using synthetic fertilizers and pesticides to control weeds, pests, and increase soil nutrition. Research is revealing that there are potential risks to humans, beneficial insects, wildlife and pets with the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Yet these products are what so many of us know and turn to for fast, effective results, and our home improvement stores are stocked with them making them easy and convenient to purchase.

The emphasis in organic lawn care is on the continual improvement of the soil which in turn produces healthier grass. Healthy grass is able to withstand heat and drought, maintain density to keep weeds from encroaching, and resist disease and pests. However, soil improvement takes time, and often there are not the fast, visible results as there are with synthetic products. A different mindset goes along with organic lawn care. There has to be patience as well as a certain amount of tolerance. The picture-perfect lawn that can be obtained using the conventional lawn products may not be the end result of using natural, organic methods. “When natural organic methods are used consistently over time, a reasonably uniform green lawn that is resistant to adverse environmental conditions and/or pests can be expected.” Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet

Photo of mowing lawnLet’s assume that your lawn is in relatively good condition and there are only a few weeds growing and no obvious disease or pest problems. There are some organic practices you can begin the next time you mow. First, leave your grass a little bit longer. Taller grass shades the soil and prevents weed seeds from germinating. It also keeps the soil cooler and reduces water loss. Second, always observe the 1/3 rule. This rule simply means that you will never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade in a single mowing. Removing more than 1/3 of the blade actually causes stress to the grass, and when grass is stressed, it is more susceptible to disease. It’s easy to become a weekend mower, but in the spring when grass is actively growing, mowing every weekend is not enough. By mowing more often and taking only 1/3 of the blade, the grass is healthier and more tolerant of heat and resists pests and disease.

A third mowing practice that is very beneficial to the soil is to mulch the grass clippings instead of picking them up. Mulching the clippings regularly will actually provide up to 1/3 of the lawn’s needed nitrogen, and it does not create a thatch problem. Mulching mowers cut up the clipping more finely and don’t leave clumps of grass. If your mower does not mulch, the grass clumps should be raked over and dispersed evenly over the lawn. The last mowing recommendation is to start out each season with a sharp mower blade. A blade that is not sharp will tear the grass and leave a ragged edge which causes the grass to lose more water and become susceptible to disease.

So, for starting out on the whole topic of organic lawn care, it wasn’t too painful! The mowing practices are easy to implement, and recycling the grass clippings back into the soil is what keeping an organic lawn is all about. Next week we’ll look at additional methods of adding those needed nutrients into the soil.

Question for the week: Are you a weekend mower? Is it difficult to make yourself mow more often?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Spring Blooms

Published on April 21, 2013 in Garden Flowers and Ground Covers. 2 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , .

Depending on where you live, spring is here in all its glory. Here in Oregon, it’s been typical — cool, gray days and rain with the occasional day of sunshine and warmth to tease us and make us want summer. But, despite the gray of the clouds, my yard is alive with the colors of spring, and I decided to take an inventory of what’s blooming. With camera in hand, I headed out in-between showers with the only goal of simply enjoying and drinking in the vivid colors and textures of beautiful spring blooms.  You’re welcome to come along!

Photo of crab apple tree

Love this color!

 

From every angle in the yard, this mature crab apple tree puts on its stunning display. I cannot say enough good about this tree. Currently, it gives the pollinators lots of nectar, and once the small little “apples” form, there is plenty of food for birds throughout the fall and winter.

 

 

Photo of ground cover

Ajuga does well in partial shade.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Growing beneath the tree is Ajuga ground cover. The bees also seem to enjoy it as well. Known as Bugleweed, Ajuga can be grown from seeds, and it does well in partial shade. Many ground covers need more sun, but this low-growing, flowering ground cover seems happy with only the moderate amount of light that the tree allows in.

photo of yellow alyssum

Perennial Alyssum

 

 

 

Perennial Alyssum is a new discovery and addition to the garden. Pollinators are visiting it, and seem to be very happy with me for adding this golden variety. This is a wonderful, early-blooming Alyssum that can be started with ground cover seeds.

 

 

 

 

I grow my tulips in containers.

I grow my tulips in containers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The daffodils have given their show, and now its the tulips’ turn to be the center of attention. After losing several prized tulips to rot (my soil has drainage issues), I have decided to use containers for now. Another advantage of using a pot:  move the tulips and give them more protection when a storm passes through.

 

 

 

 

Photo of bleeding heart

Bleeding Heart and Wood Violets.

 

 

No spring garden would be complete without a bleeding heart! Alongside the bleeding heart is a growing clump of wood violets. They make a sweet ground cover for shady areas as well. Mine have spread quite slowly, but I’m hoping they will eventually take up more and more of this north-facing bed.

 

 

Photo of Wallflower

Bees love Wallflower!

 

 

 

I am very fond of wallflowers. They are nice for cutting and the bees adore them. Can you tell that I like to make the bees happy?

 

 

Photo of Candytuft

Candytuft Groundcover

 

 

 

 

 

 

Candytuft is another favorite groundcover that I think looks exceptionally nice with spring bulbs. The color and texture just sets the other, more vivid, colors off. The candytuft always give me a second display of color in the early fall too, and for the rest the year, it offers attractive, evergreen foliage.

 

 

 

photo of dog

Wally, my partner in the garden.

 

 

Lastly, every gardener needs a partner. My little partner had a hard time holding still for this photo, but he’s always as willing and excited to go “work outside” as I am.

I hope that wherever you are, and however the spring weather has blessed you, or not, that you can take the time and enjoy the leisurely stroll through the landscape.

“I love spring anywhere, but if I could choose I would always greet it in a garden.”  ~Ruth Stout

Question for the week: What is your favorite spring flower?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Choosing the Right Warm Season Grass, part 2

Published on March 28, 2013 in Lawn Care. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , , , .

In today’s post we will continue to look at some of the more common warm season grasses. Just having a little bit of knowledge about the grass species can make a big difference in deciding what type of grass to grow. We make a substantial investment of time and money into our landscape, and choosing the right grass will ensure that we can reap the rewards of our investment for years to come.

Photo of Buffalo Grass lawn

Buffalo Grass Lawn

The following questions are helping to narrow down our choices:

  • How much sun does the lawn receive?
  • What’s the purpose of the lawn?
  • How much maintenance are you willing to give?
  • How cold are your winters?

Buffalo grass: There is no grass species that is more heat and drought tolerant than Buffalo grass. It is native to the Great Plains of North America, and its popularity and use as a lawn grass is growing. Buffalo grass spreads by stolons, but it’s a slow-growing grass and is not aggressive. This turf grass is very low-maintenance, needing little mowing, fertilizing, or irrigation. It is not shade tolerant, and it can have a long winter dormancy. In the summer during periods of prolonged heat and drought, Buffalo grass will go dormant, but once moisture is available, it comes out of dormancy and greens up. Buffalo grass is the most cold-tolerant warm season grass, but the degree of tolerance varies among the cultivars.

St. Augustine grass: If you need a warm-season grass and you have areas of shade or partial shade throughout your landscape, St. Augustine tolerates shade the best. It has a creeping growth habit that produces a very thick turf, but it is not durable enough for high traffic or sports fields. St. Augustine grass requires moderate maintenance with high amounts of Nitrogen as well as dethatching. It is not cold tolerant, so it is often grown in coastal regions. St. Augustine is tolerant of salinity.

Seashore paspalum grass: In areas where the soil or the irrigation water has a high salt content, Seashore paspalum grass is a good choice. This grass spreads fairly aggressively by rhizomes and creates a dense turf. Seashore paspalum requires moderate amounts of fertilizer and water, but it does require frequent mowing to keep a short cut. It prefers full sun and tolerates little shade, and it has a low tolerance to cold. Like St. Augustine, it is often grown in coastal regions.

Bahia grass: Where soils are sandy and infertile, Bahia grass will perform well. It is known for establishing a dense root system, yet the turf is not as thick as the other warm season grass species. Bahiagrass requires little fertilizer or water, but because it produces seed heads which some people find unsightly, it must be mowed frequently. Bahia grass is good for large areas, acreage, roadsides and lawns where a manicured lawn is not expected. It does best in full sun and has little tolerance for shade or high foot traffic. Bahia has poor tolerance to cold temperatures.

Do you find the various species of grasses fascinating? There are similarities yet slight differences that allow them to be useful to various applications. One attribute that Buffalo grass, Seashore paspalum, and Bahia have in common is that they can all be grown from seeds. Establishing a lawn from grass seeds is less expensive than using sprigs or sod.

Question of the week: Do you grow any of the warm season grasses in today’s post?

Photo from: http://ccuh.ucdavis.edu/projects/uc-verde-buffalograss/uc-verde-buffalograss

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Choosing the Right Warm Season Grass

Published on March 18, 2013 in Lawn Care. 2 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , .

For those who live in the warm/arid zones (Southwestern states) or the warm/humid zones (Southeastern and Gulf states), a warm season grass species is going to be better adapted to your climate. There are several warm season grass species to choose from, so how do you know which one is the best suited for your site? The list of choices is rather long!

  • Zoysia Grass
  • Bermuda Grass
  • Carpet Grass
  • Centipede Grass
  • Bahia Grass
  • St. Augustine Grass
  • Seashore Paspalum
  • Buffalo Grass

Last week’s blog discussed cool season grasses, but it started out with some fundamental questions that help narrow down the selection process. There are questions that will help narrow down a warm-season grass selection as well, and these include:

  • How much sun does the lawn receive?
  • What’s the purpose of the lawn?
  • How much maintenance are you willing to give?
  • How cold are your winters?

Sunlight is an important factor, and there are some species that tolerate shade better than others. Consider not only the amount of light that the lawn will receive today, but also in the future as shrubs and trees grow and mature.

The purpose of the lawn is also a consideration when selecting a grass. Do you have children and pets playing on the grass regularly? If so, a grass species that is the most wear tolerant and recovers well is best. Do you like a pristine lawn that will be the envy of the neighborhood that seldom has traffic? Wear resistance and recovery are not factors for this type of lawn.

The amount of maintenance that you are willing to give is a factor that will help decide the grass. High quality lawns require frequent applications of fertilizer, regular mowing, summer irrigation, and often they will require the use of herbicides or insecticides. Turf grass species vary in the amount of maintenance that is required to keep high quality.

photo of centipede lawn

A well-maintained Centipede lawn

Lastly, warm season grasses can suffer from winter temperatures. There are some that are more cold tolerant than others. If you live close to or in the transition zone, you might need to consider grass species than can handle snow and freezing temperatures.

In today’s blog, let’s look at the first four grass species and discuss the characteristics that will help you determine whether this is the right grass for you.

Zoysia grass: This grass species is very water efficient and likes full sun. It tolerates a small amount of shade. It is wear tolerant and has the capacity to recuperate from wear well. Zoysia grass spreads by stolons and rhizomes, but it is slow to spread. Because of its slow growth habit, it also is considered to require less maintenance, and it requires less applications of Nitrogen. This grass species has a fine to medium-leaf texture and can be a very attractive, dense lawn with proper maintenance. Cold tolerance is better than Bermuda grass, and Zoysia is often seen in the transition zone.

Bermuda grass: It is the most common warm-season grass grown. It is exceptionally wear tolerant and has very good recuperative abilities making it a popular grass for sports fields. It requires full sun and tolerates little to no shade. It spread aggressively by stolons and rhizomes which can make it difficult to contain and keep out of flower beds. Due to it fast growth rate, it is considered to be a higher maintenance grass, requiring more mowing and regular applications of Nitrogen. Bermuda grass is very heat and drought tolerant, but it does not perform well in areas with cold winters where it can suffer from winter damage.

Carpet grass: Not as common as some of the other species, Carpet grass has its place where it performs well. It is a course-textured grass that is slow-growing and requires moderate maintenance. It is well-suited to wet, sandy, acidic areas where other grasses cannot thrive. It prefers full sun to moderate shade, and spreads slowly by stolons. It is native to the Gulf states and prefers areas with warm winters. Carpet grass is not as drought tolerant as Bermuda grass, and because it produces seed heads, it requires weekly mowing and may be considered less attractive.

Centipede grass: This slow-growing grass is considered to be a low-maintenance grass. It spreads slowly by stolons but is not wear tolerant. It is pale green in color and tolerates heat and sun well. Its shade tolerance is fair. Centipede is not considered to be very winter tolerant, nor is it considered to produce an attractive, high-quality turf. Low-maintenance is the most attractive feature for this species.

That wraps up today’s post. Look forward to next week’s blog to get the facts for the other grass species as well as a comparison chart looking at all eight of the warm season species. As you can tell, the species are different and you definitely can begin to see where one grass might work well for you and another would not.

Question for the week: Which warm season grass are you growing, and do you like it?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Choosing the Right Cool Season Grass

Published on March 11, 2013 in Lawn Care. 1 Comment Tags: , , , , , , , , .
photo of fescue lawn

Tall Turf-type Fescue Lawn

Last week’s blog post examined the difference between cool season and warm season grasses and how each category of grass species is best adapted to different climatic zones in the United States. If you live in the cool/humid zones or the cool/arid zones, cool season grasses are adapted to perform well, and they are likely going to be what you would choose for turf grass.

The cool season grass species are bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fescues (divided into fine fescues and tall fescues), and bentgrass. However, bentgrass is not going to be included as a choice for turf grass because it has its own unique growth habit and maintenance needs that limit its applications. Bentgrass is a cool season grass that is most often used on golf courses and specifically for putting greens.

To narrow down the selection even more, there are a few questions that you should ask about your lawn?

  • How much sun does the lawn receive?
  • What’s the purpose of the lawn?
  • How much maintenance are you willing to give?

Sunlight is an important factor, and there are some species that tolerate shade better than others. Consider not only the amount of light that the lawn will receive today, but also in the future as shrubs and trees grow and mature. In many lawns, there is a sun/shade combination with areas of the lawn being in full sun all day long and other areas receiving partial shade throughout the day. For this type of area, a mixture is often needed, which means that two different species are mixed together. A common mix for combination lawns is perennial ryegrass and fine fescues.

The purpose of the lawn is also a consideration when selecting a grass. Do you have children and pets playing on the grass regularly? If so, a grass species that is the most wear tolerant and recovers well is best. Do you like a pristine lawn that will be the envy of the neighborhood that seldom has traffic? Wear resistance and recovery are not factors for this type of lawn.

Finally, the amount of maintenance that you are willing to give is a factor that will help decide the grass. High quality lawns require frequent applications of fertilizer, regular mowing, summer irrigation, and often they will require the use of herbicides or insecticides. Turf grass species vary in the amount of maintenance that is required to keep high quality.

Once you have answered the questions, you can then choose the species that is best suited to your environment. Now, let’s look at the species and what they can offer:

Kentucky Bluegrass: This grass species provides a dense turf that competes with weeds well and recovers well. It spreads by underground roots called rhizomes, and this allows it to repair when there’s been high traffic or stress. It has a medium texture with a dark green color, and it is the most cold tolerant of all the cool season grasses. The root system is fairly shallow, so Kentucky Bluegrass is not drought tolerant and requires irrigation throughout the summer. It often will go dormant during the hottest part of summer, but when fall arrives and temperatures cool, it recovers quickly. Kentucky Bluegrass prefers full sun and is not considered to be very shade tolerant.

Perennial Ryegrass: This grass species is known for its fast germination and establishment. It also has a medium texture and dark green color, and it does well in full sun and tolerates very little shade. It is very wear resistant. It is called a bunch grass because it does not spread by rhizomes or stolons. Because of this, it does not repair itself after damage is done. Ryegrass is often mixed with bluegrass when used in high traffic areas, but it is not as cold tolerant and can suffer winter damage. Perennial ryegrass also needs irrigation throughout the summer, and it can go dormant during the summer and recover again once fall arrives.

Fine Fescues: This is a group of fescues known for their fine textures and medium to light green color. Some species include creeping red fescue, hard fescue, and chewings fescue. This group of grasses is tolerant of shade, and they spread to help repair worn areas. They are not the most wear resistant, but they do not require a lot of fertilizer or maintenance to keep the turf attractive. Fine fescues are fairly drought tolerant, but they will also go dormant during the heat of summer and lose their color. Fine fescues are often used for erosion control and in naturalized areas.

Tall Turf-Type Fescues: Another bunch grass is tall turf-type fescue. It recovers slowly from damage, but it is extremely wear resistant. Tall turf-type fescue is medium texture, dark green color that performs well in full sun but tolerates partial shade. Tall turf-type fescue is the most heat and drought tolerant of the cool season grasses, and it withstand cold winters better than ryegrass as well. It can go dormant and lose its color during summer as well. Tall turf-type fescue requires less care and maintenance than either bluegrass or ryegrass.

Here’s a chart to show some comparisons:

Chart comparing grasses

Making the right choice of grass is the most important step. Knowing the differences in the species is a tremendous help in making an informed decision. Ask your neighbors what they are growing. Get advice from local county extension agencies. Climates can vary greatly even within a particular zone, so getting knowledgeable advice is always wise.

Question for the week: What type of cool season grass are you growing?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell