Organic Lawn Care, part 3

Published on May 14, 2013 in Lawn Care and Uncategorized. 1 Comment Tags: , , , , , , , .

These last few weeks, we have been looking at organic lawn care practices, and today’s blog examines the benefits of applying top dressings to lawns. There has been a considerable amount of university-based research on the improved performance of turf with the use of top dressings of compost. Today, the practice of top dressing is used by many who prefer a more organic approach to lawn maintenance as well professional turf managers of sports fields and golf courses.

What is a top dressing? Simply put, it is a thin layer of material, ¼ to ½ inch that is spread over the top of the turf. The materials used for top dressing can include sand, soil, composts or a mixture of any of these. The best times of year to top dress are in the fall before frosts are expected or in the spring after the first mowing. Adding a top dressing is a way to slowly add organic amendments to the soil and improve it without disturbing the growth of the grass. The improvements in the soil might not be immediately visible, but following a routine over a period of several years, the following list of benefits is attributed to top dressings of compost:

  • Provide nutrients
  • Increase organic matter
  • Improve soil structure
  • Reduce irrigation
  • Reduce thatch
  • Improve surface irregularities
  • Add beneficial microbes
  • Reduce winter damage
  • Reduce weeds
  • Reduce nutrient loss to surface and ground water

photo of top dressing for lawnComposted material is easily added to gardens or beds where the large clumps are usually left to further breakdown. But with grass, it’s helpful to sieve the compost so that the large clumps are removed and put back into the compost bin. A homemade screen can be made from 2 x 4s and made to fit over a wheel barrow. Use a piece of hardware cloth that has ½ inch openings, and secure the piece to the wooden frame. The organic material to be placed on the lawn should be dry and easily pass through the screen. Once you have the material screened, you can spread it by using a large drop spreader, by dumping small piles and then raking it out, or by simply using a shovel and flinging the material over the lawn. Typically only ¼ to ½ inch of top dressing is applied. At least half of the leaf height should be visible or the grass may be killed by a lack of sunlight. Except for areas in the turf grass that are already thin with soil exposed, a top dressing should not be visible.

Top dressings can be used to even out bumps and swales. In this case the top dressing may be a mix of soil and composted material, and the depth may be deeper. The area can then be over-seeded with grass seed. Lightly rake the seed into the top dressing and keep the area moist for good germination and establishment. Lawn overseeding should be done when the soil temperature is optimal for your specific area.

Core aeration can be done before or after top dressing, and it helps to incorporate the organic material into the soil. Irrigating after the application of top dressing also helps integrate the compost down into the turf.

If you do your own composting, you know exactly what is in the compost and how well-processed it is. Many home owners find themselves looking for compost to purchase. When purchasing compost, it is important to find a reputable supplier who can provide an analysis of the product. How do you know how much to purchase? First, determine the amount of surface area to be covered then multiply the area by the depth of compost desired (in feet).

For a 5000 square foot lawn being covered with ¼ inch of compost, the math would be 5000 feet2 lawn x 0.02 ft compost = 100 feet3. Usually, compost is sold by the cubic yard. Divide 100 feet3 by 27 = 3.7 yards3. So, for a 5000 square foot lawn, 4 cubic yards of compost would cover it at a depth of ¼ inch.

Many homeowners have replaced synthetic fertilizers with a yearly top dressing. It may involve more work, but as composted materials continue to breakdown into the lawn and add nutrients to the soil the results begin to become obviously visible and rewarding. A healthy lawn is better able to recover from dormancy, tolerate a summer drought, resist a disease outbreak, or repair after heavy wear and tear from foot traffic, and top dressing definitely results in a healthier lawn.

Question for the week: Have you ever top dressed your home lawn?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Photo from: http://www.compostjunkie.com

Organic Lawn Care, part 2

Published on May 7, 2013 in Lawn Care. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , .

Our green lush lawns are where the kids can play, the dogs can run, and a friendly game of croquet can be played. But green grass is hungry and requires a certain amount of food or nutrients in order to stay healthy. With a growing concern over conventional lawn care and the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, many homeowners are looking for natural, cost-effective methods of organic lawn care. Instead of turning to synthetic fertilizers to add nutrients to the soil, there is an easy and sustainable method to add nitrogen to the soil that is often overlooked – clover. Yes, I said the dreaded word! What many people consider to be an obnoxious, troublesome weed can actually provide a much needed benefit to our lawns.

White clover is a perennial legume that fixates nitrogen from the air and makes it available in the soil. It grows all over North America, in sun or shade, fertile or non-fertile soils, and it often shows up uninvited in our lawns. Before the creation of selective herbicides that are be sprayed on grass lawns and kill only the broad leaf weeds, clover was commonly found in all lawns. But, it’s rounded leaves can stand out in a lawn and create an uneven appearance and texture. That’s when it does look rather weedy and is often killed out. But what if the clover was evenly dispersed throughout the lawn and it was allowed to grow right along with the grass? It actually doesn’t look bad, and there are so many benefits to allowing clover to grow:

  • It fixates nitrogen and provides the essential nutrient to the grass throughout the entire growing season. Because of the continual release of nitrogen, the grass is healthier and able to tolerate heat, drought, and diseases.
  • It helps aerate the soil and reduce compaction. The clover roots go deeper than the grass roots, and break up the soil and reduce compaction.
  • It spreads by stolons and weaves its way through the grass creating a more wear tolerant turf. Also, because the turf is thick, many encroaching weeds are kept out of the lawn.
  • It keeps its dark green color longer in heat and in winter.
  • It is tolerant of sun and shade.

There are now improved species of perennial white clover that have much smaller leaves allowing them to blend into the turf better.

photo of miniclover

Miniclover that has been mowed.

Miniclover grows the same, provides the nitrogen the same as the larger species, but with the smaller leaves, the texture blends and creates a visually attractive lawn as well as a sustainable lawn.

When seeding a new lawn, seed with 2 – 5% clover seeds. Clover seeds are small, and can be mixed in with the grass seeds for an even dispersal. Lawns that are already established can be over-seeded with clover seeds in the spring or the fall.

A grass clover mixture might not be suited for every landscape, but if you live in a rural setting or in an area that does not have strict rules governing the neighborhood landscapes, these grass clover lawns really are sustainable and economical.

Question for the week: Would you consider growing a grass clover lawn mix?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Organic Lawn Care

Published on April 28, 2013 in Lawn Care. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , .

For the next few weeks, my blog posts are going to explore organic lawn care, and I hope to offer some viable methods of natural organic maintenance that are easy to implement. Even if the goal isn’t to go completely organic, there are a few well-researched practices that will reduce the need for traditional synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. I know some people can get very intense over this entire subject of organic vs. conventional lawn care. I’m not here to take a side, but rather provide documented research that will provide some recommendations.

In recent years many home owners have had a growing concern with conventional lawn care. Conventional lawn care would be defined as using synthetic fertilizers and pesticides to control weeds, pests, and increase soil nutrition. Research is revealing that there are potential risks to humans, beneficial insects, wildlife and pets with the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Yet these products are what so many of us know and turn to for fast, effective results, and our home improvement stores are stocked with them making them easy and convenient to purchase.

The emphasis in organic lawn care is on the continual improvement of the soil which in turn produces healthier grass. Healthy grass is able to withstand heat and drought, maintain density to keep weeds from encroaching, and resist disease and pests. However, soil improvement takes time, and often there are not the fast, visible results as there are with synthetic products. A different mindset goes along with organic lawn care. There has to be patience as well as a certain amount of tolerance. The picture-perfect lawn that can be obtained using the conventional lawn products may not be the end result of using natural, organic methods. “When natural organic methods are used consistently over time, a reasonably uniform green lawn that is resistant to adverse environmental conditions and/or pests can be expected.” Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet

Photo of mowing lawnLet’s assume that your lawn is in relatively good condition and there are only a few weeds growing and no obvious disease or pest problems. There are some organic practices you can begin the next time you mow. First, leave your grass a little bit longer. Taller grass shades the soil and prevents weed seeds from germinating. It also keeps the soil cooler and reduces water loss. Second, always observe the 1/3 rule. This rule simply means that you will never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade in a single mowing. Removing more than 1/3 of the blade actually causes stress to the grass, and when grass is stressed, it is more susceptible to disease. It’s easy to become a weekend mower, but in the spring when grass is actively growing, mowing every weekend is not enough. By mowing more often and taking only 1/3 of the blade, the grass is healthier and more tolerant of heat and resists pests and disease.

A third mowing practice that is very beneficial to the soil is to mulch the grass clippings instead of picking them up. Mulching the clippings regularly will actually provide up to 1/3 of the lawn’s needed nitrogen, and it does not create a thatch problem. Mulching mowers cut up the clipping more finely and don’t leave clumps of grass. If your mower does not mulch, the grass clumps should be raked over and dispersed evenly over the lawn. The last mowing recommendation is to start out each season with a sharp mower blade. A blade that is not sharp will tear the grass and leave a ragged edge which causes the grass to lose more water and become susceptible to disease.

So, for starting out on the whole topic of organic lawn care, it wasn’t too painful! The mowing practices are easy to implement, and recycling the grass clippings back into the soil is what keeping an organic lawn is all about. Next week we’ll look at additional methods of adding those needed nutrients into the soil.

Question for the week: Are you a weekend mower? Is it difficult to make yourself mow more often?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Spring Blooms

Published on April 21, 2013 in Garden Flowers and Ground Covers. 2 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , .

Depending on where you live, spring is here in all its glory. Here in Oregon, it’s been typical — cool, gray days and rain with the occasional day of sunshine and warmth to tease us and make us want summer. But, despite the gray of the clouds, my yard is alive with the colors of spring, and I decided to take an inventory of what’s blooming. With camera in hand, I headed out in-between showers with the only goal of simply enjoying and drinking in the vivid colors and textures of beautiful spring blooms.  You’re welcome to come along!

Photo of crab apple tree

Love this color!

 

From every angle in the yard, this mature crab apple tree puts on its stunning display. I cannot say enough good about this tree. Currently, it gives the pollinators lots of nectar, and once the small little “apples” form, there is plenty of food for birds throughout the fall and winter.

 

 

Photo of ground cover

Ajuga does well in partial shade.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Growing beneath the tree is Ajuga ground cover. The bees also seem to enjoy it as well. Known as Bugleweed, Ajuga can be grown from seeds, and it does well in partial shade. Many ground covers need more sun, but this low-growing, flowering ground cover seems happy with only the moderate amount of light that the tree allows in.

photo of yellow alyssum

Perennial Alyssum

 

 

 

Perennial Alyssum is a new discovery and addition to the garden. Pollinators are visiting it, and seem to be very happy with me for adding this golden variety. This is a wonderful, early-blooming Alyssum that can be started with ground cover seeds.

 

 

 

 

I grow my tulips in containers.

I grow my tulips in containers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The daffodils have given their show, and now its the tulips’ turn to be the center of attention. After losing several prized tulips to rot (my soil has drainage issues), I have decided to use containers for now. Another advantage of using a pot:  move the tulips and give them more protection when a storm passes through.

 

 

 

 

Photo of bleeding heart

Bleeding Heart and Wood Violets.

 

 

No spring garden would be complete without a bleeding heart! Alongside the bleeding heart is a growing clump of wood violets. They make a sweet ground cover for shady areas as well. Mine have spread quite slowly, but I’m hoping they will eventually take up more and more of this north-facing bed.

 

 

Photo of Wallflower

Bees love Wallflower!

 

 

 

I am very fond of wallflowers. They are nice for cutting and the bees adore them. Can you tell that I like to make the bees happy?

 

 

Photo of Candytuft

Candytuft Groundcover

 

 

 

 

 

 

Candytuft is another favorite groundcover that I think looks exceptionally nice with spring bulbs. The color and texture just sets the other, more vivid, colors off. The candytuft always give me a second display of color in the early fall too, and for the rest the year, it offers attractive, evergreen foliage.

 

 

 

photo of dog

Wally, my partner in the garden.

 

 

Lastly, every gardener needs a partner. My little partner had a hard time holding still for this photo, but he’s always as willing and excited to go “work outside” as I am.

I hope that wherever you are, and however the spring weather has blessed you, or not, that you can take the time and enjoy the leisurely stroll through the landscape.

“I love spring anywhere, but if I could choose I would always greet it in a garden.”  ~Ruth Stout

Question for the week: What is your favorite spring flower?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Choosing the Right Warm Season Grass, part 2

Published on March 28, 2013 in Lawn Care. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , , , .

In today’s post we will continue to look at some of the more common warm season grasses. Just having a little bit of knowledge about the grass species can make a big difference in deciding what type of grass to grow. We make a substantial investment of time and money into our landscape, and choosing the right grass will ensure that we can reap the rewards of our investment for years to come.

Photo of Buffalo Grass lawn

Buffalo Grass Lawn

The following questions are helping to narrow down our choices:

  • How much sun does the lawn receive?
  • What’s the purpose of the lawn?
  • How much maintenance are you willing to give?
  • How cold are your winters?

Buffalo grass: There is no grass species that is more heat and drought tolerant than Buffalo grass. It is native to the Great Plains of North America, and its popularity and use as a lawn grass is growing. Buffalo grass spreads by stolons, but it’s a slow-growing grass and is not aggressive. This turf grass is very low-maintenance, needing little mowing, fertilizing, or irrigation. It is not shade tolerant, and it can have a long winter dormancy. In the summer during periods of prolonged heat and drought, Buffalo grass will go dormant, but once moisture is available, it comes out of dormancy and greens up. Buffalo grass is the most cold-tolerant warm season grass, but the degree of tolerance varies among the cultivars.

St. Augustine grass: If you need a warm-season grass and you have areas of shade or partial shade throughout your landscape, St. Augustine tolerates shade the best. It has a creeping growth habit that produces a very thick turf, but it is not durable enough for high traffic or sports fields. St. Augustine grass requires moderate maintenance with high amounts of Nitrogen as well as dethatching. It is not cold tolerant, so it is often grown in coastal regions. St. Augustine is tolerant of salinity.

Seashore paspalum grass: In areas where the soil or the irrigation water has a high salt content, Seashore paspalum grass is a good choice. This grass spreads fairly aggressively by rhizomes and creates a dense turf. Seashore paspalum requires moderate amounts of fertilizer and water, but it does require frequent mowing to keep a short cut. It prefers full sun and tolerates little shade, and it has a low tolerance to cold. Like St. Augustine, it is often grown in coastal regions.

Bahia grass: Where soils are sandy and infertile, Bahia grass will perform well. It is known for establishing a dense root system, yet the turf is not as thick as the other warm season grass species. Bahiagrass requires little fertilizer or water, but because it produces seed heads which some people find unsightly, it must be mowed frequently. Bahia grass is good for large areas, acreage, roadsides and lawns where a manicured lawn is not expected. It does best in full sun and has little tolerance for shade or high foot traffic. Bahia has poor tolerance to cold temperatures.

Do you find the various species of grasses fascinating? There are similarities yet slight differences that allow them to be useful to various applications. One attribute that Buffalo grass, Seashore paspalum, and Bahia have in common is that they can all be grown from seeds. Establishing a lawn from grass seeds is less expensive than using sprigs or sod.

Question of the week: Do you grow any of the warm season grasses in today’s post?

Photo from: http://ccuh.ucdavis.edu/projects/uc-verde-buffalograss/uc-verde-buffalograss

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Choosing the Right Warm Season Grass

Published on March 18, 2013 in Lawn Care. 2 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , .

For those who live in the warm/arid zones (Southwestern states) or the warm/humid zones (Southeastern and Gulf states), a warm season grass species is going to be better adapted to your climate. There are several warm season grass species to choose from, so how do you know which one is the best suited for your site? The list of choices is rather long!

  • Zoysia Grass
  • Bermuda Grass
  • Carpet Grass
  • Centipede Grass
  • Bahia Grass
  • St. Augustine Grass
  • Seashore Paspalum
  • Buffalo Grass

Last week’s blog discussed cool season grasses, but it started out with some fundamental questions that help narrow down the selection process. There are questions that will help narrow down a warm-season grass selection as well, and these include:

  • How much sun does the lawn receive?
  • What’s the purpose of the lawn?
  • How much maintenance are you willing to give?
  • How cold are your winters?

Sunlight is an important factor, and there are some species that tolerate shade better than others. Consider not only the amount of light that the lawn will receive today, but also in the future as shrubs and trees grow and mature.

The purpose of the lawn is also a consideration when selecting a grass. Do you have children and pets playing on the grass regularly? If so, a grass species that is the most wear tolerant and recovers well is best. Do you like a pristine lawn that will be the envy of the neighborhood that seldom has traffic? Wear resistance and recovery are not factors for this type of lawn.

The amount of maintenance that you are willing to give is a factor that will help decide the grass. High quality lawns require frequent applications of fertilizer, regular mowing, summer irrigation, and often they will require the use of herbicides or insecticides. Turf grass species vary in the amount of maintenance that is required to keep high quality.

photo of centipede lawn

A well-maintained Centipede lawn

Lastly, warm season grasses can suffer from winter temperatures. There are some that are more cold tolerant than others. If you live close to or in the transition zone, you might need to consider grass species than can handle snow and freezing temperatures.

In today’s blog, let’s look at the first four grass species and discuss the characteristics that will help you determine whether this is the right grass for you.

Zoysia grass: This grass species is very water efficient and likes full sun. It tolerates a small amount of shade. It is wear tolerant and has the capacity to recuperate from wear well. Zoysia grass spreads by stolons and rhizomes, but it is slow to spread. Because of its slow growth habit, it also is considered to require less maintenance, and it requires less applications of Nitrogen. This grass species has a fine to medium-leaf texture and can be a very attractive, dense lawn with proper maintenance. Cold tolerance is better than Bermuda grass, and Zoysia is often seen in the transition zone.

Bermuda grass: It is the most common warm-season grass grown. It is exceptionally wear tolerant and has very good recuperative abilities making it a popular grass for sports fields. It requires full sun and tolerates little to no shade. It spread aggressively by stolons and rhizomes which can make it difficult to contain and keep out of flower beds. Due to it fast growth rate, it is considered to be a higher maintenance grass, requiring more mowing and regular applications of Nitrogen. Bermuda grass is very heat and drought tolerant, but it does not perform well in areas with cold winters where it can suffer from winter damage.

Carpet grass: Not as common as some of the other species, Carpet grass has its place where it performs well. It is a course-textured grass that is slow-growing and requires moderate maintenance. It is well-suited to wet, sandy, acidic areas where other grasses cannot thrive. It prefers full sun to moderate shade, and spreads slowly by stolons. It is native to the Gulf states and prefers areas with warm winters. Carpet grass is not as drought tolerant as Bermuda grass, and because it produces seed heads, it requires weekly mowing and may be considered less attractive.

Centipede grass: This slow-growing grass is considered to be a low-maintenance grass. It spreads slowly by stolons but is not wear tolerant. It is pale green in color and tolerates heat and sun well. Its shade tolerance is fair. Centipede is not considered to be very winter tolerant, nor is it considered to produce an attractive, high-quality turf. Low-maintenance is the most attractive feature for this species.

That wraps up today’s post. Look forward to next week’s blog to get the facts for the other grass species as well as a comparison chart looking at all eight of the warm season species. As you can tell, the species are different and you definitely can begin to see where one grass might work well for you and another would not.

Question for the week: Which warm season grass are you growing, and do you like it?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Choosing the Right Cool Season Grass

Published on March 11, 2013 in Lawn Care. 1 Comment Tags: , , , , , , , , .
photo of fescue lawn

Tall Turf-type Fescue Lawn

Last week’s blog post examined the difference between cool season and warm season grasses and how each category of grass species is best adapted to different climatic zones in the United States. If you live in the cool/humid zones or the cool/arid zones, cool season grasses are adapted to perform well, and they are likely going to be what you would choose for turf grass.

The cool season grass species are bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fescues (divided into fine fescues and tall fescues), and bentgrass. However, bentgrass is not going to be included as a choice for turf grass because it has its own unique growth habit and maintenance needs that limit its applications. Bentgrass is a cool season grass that is most often used on golf courses and specifically for putting greens.

To narrow down the selection even more, there are a few questions that you should ask about your lawn?

  • How much sun does the lawn receive?
  • What’s the purpose of the lawn?
  • How much maintenance are you willing to give?

Sunlight is an important factor, and there are some species that tolerate shade better than others. Consider not only the amount of light that the lawn will receive today, but also in the future as shrubs and trees grow and mature. In many lawns, there is a sun/shade combination with areas of the lawn being in full sun all day long and other areas receiving partial shade throughout the day. For this type of area, a mixture is often needed, which means that two different species are mixed together. A common mix for combination lawns is perennial ryegrass and fine fescues.

The purpose of the lawn is also a consideration when selecting a grass. Do you have children and pets playing on the grass regularly? If so, a grass species that is the most wear tolerant and recovers well is best. Do you like a pristine lawn that will be the envy of the neighborhood that seldom has traffic? Wear resistance and recovery are not factors for this type of lawn.

Finally, the amount of maintenance that you are willing to give is a factor that will help decide the grass. High quality lawns require frequent applications of fertilizer, regular mowing, summer irrigation, and often they will require the use of herbicides or insecticides. Turf grass species vary in the amount of maintenance that is required to keep high quality.

Once you have answered the questions, you can then choose the species that is best suited to your environment. Now, let’s look at the species and what they can offer:

Kentucky Bluegrass: This grass species provides a dense turf that competes with weeds well and recovers well. It spreads by underground roots called rhizomes, and this allows it to repair when there’s been high traffic or stress. It has a medium texture with a dark green color, and it is the most cold tolerant of all the cool season grasses. The root system is fairly shallow, so Kentucky Bluegrass is not drought tolerant and requires irrigation throughout the summer. It often will go dormant during the hottest part of summer, but when fall arrives and temperatures cool, it recovers quickly. Kentucky Bluegrass prefers full sun and is not considered to be very shade tolerant.

Perennial Ryegrass: This grass species is known for its fast germination and establishment. It also has a medium texture and dark green color, and it does well in full sun and tolerates very little shade. It is very wear resistant. It is called a bunch grass because it does not spread by rhizomes or stolons. Because of this, it does not repair itself after damage is done. Ryegrass is often mixed with bluegrass when used in high traffic areas, but it is not as cold tolerant and can suffer winter damage. Perennial ryegrass also needs irrigation throughout the summer, and it can go dormant during the summer and recover again once fall arrives.

Fine Fescues: This is a group of fescues known for their fine textures and medium to light green color. Some species include creeping red fescue, hard fescue, and chewings fescue. This group of grasses is tolerant of shade, and they spread to help repair worn areas. They are not the most wear resistant, but they do not require a lot of fertilizer or maintenance to keep the turf attractive. Fine fescues are fairly drought tolerant, but they will also go dormant during the heat of summer and lose their color. Fine fescues are often used for erosion control and in naturalized areas.

Tall Turf-Type Fescues: Another bunch grass is tall turf-type fescue. It recovers slowly from damage, but it is extremely wear resistant. Tall turf-type fescue is medium texture, dark green color that performs well in full sun but tolerates partial shade. Tall turf-type fescue is the most heat and drought tolerant of the cool season grasses, and it withstand cold winters better than ryegrass as well. It can go dormant and lose its color during summer as well. Tall turf-type fescue requires less care and maintenance than either bluegrass or ryegrass.

Here’s a chart to show some comparisons:

Chart comparing grasses

Making the right choice of grass is the most important step. Knowing the differences in the species is a tremendous help in making an informed decision. Ask your neighbors what they are growing. Get advice from local county extension agencies. Climates can vary greatly even within a particular zone, so getting knowledgeable advice is always wise.

Question for the week: What type of cool season grass are you growing?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Cool Season or Warm Season Grasses

Published on March 3, 2013 in Lawn Care. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , .

It’s getting to be the time of year when people start thinking about their landscapes, and turf grass is an important part of the landscape. Maybe you are in a new home and have yet to start landscaping, or maybe you want to re-do a tired, worn out lawn. Where do you start? The place to start is picking the right variety of grass. Today’s blog is the first of several that will discuss turf grass and how to grow the best possible lawn.

The first step is to choose the grass, but it can be a very confusing process to select a new grass when there are so many species to choose from: bentgrass, bermuda, blue grass, buffalo grass and bahia, to list a few. To help sort out the species, a good starting point is to know that all grasses fit into two basic categories. All turf grass species are either cool-season grasses or warm-season grasses. Cool season, or sometimes called cool climate, are grass species that perform better in the cooler times of the year and thrive in temperatures ranging from 65° to 75°F. Cool season grasses also are better adapted to the cooler or temperate regions of the United States. Warm season grasses, also called warm climate, can grow in tropical regions. Warm season grass species thrive in a temperature range of 80° to 95°F, and they are best adapted to the warmer climates of the southern United States. Those are broad definitions, so now you will want to know some characteristics about each category.

Cool season grass characteristics:

  • Perform best with consistent rainfall or irrigation
  • Most growth is in the spring and fall
  • The turf can be seeded or sod
  • Growth will occur when soil temperatures are 40° to 45°F for established turf; a soil temperature of 55°F is needed for seed germination
  • Respond well to fertilization in the spring and fall
  • During summer, growth is reduced and dormancy is induced by high temperatures and low rainfall
  • Limited winter dormancy, retain green color
  • Good winter tolerance
  • Adequate shade tolerance

Warm season grass characteristics:

  • Require less water
  • Turf can be seeded (not all species), sprigs, or sod
  • Most growth at temperatures of 90° to 95°F
  • Soil temperature needs to be 60° to 65°F for seed germination and growth of established turf
  • Respond well to fertilization during the summer
  • Dormancy is triggered by shortened day lengths and colder temperatures
  • Extended winter dormancy with brown color
  • Poor winter tolerance
  • Poor shade tolerance

Cool season turf grass species:

  • Blue Grass
  • Fescues
  • Ryegrass
  • Bentgrass

Warm season turf grass species:

  • Buffalo Grass
  • Zoysia Grass
  • Bermuda Grass
  • Carpet Grass
  • Centipede Grass
  • Bahia Grass
  • St. Augustine Grass
  • Seashore Paspalum

Once you have a general understanding of the differences between warm season and cool season grasses, the next consideration is what climatic zone you live in. The United States can be divided into five primary zones:turfUSAadapt

  • Cool/Humid: This zone includes Northeast, a few of the Midwest states, and much of the Pacific Northwest. Any of the cool season species can be grown.
  • Cool/Arid: This zone includes much of the dryer areas of the Midwest and West. Cool season grass species are best adapted to this area when irrigation is available; however, Buffalo grass is becoming widely used in the warmer areas, such as Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado for non-irrigated sites. Zoysia grass is also grown in the western and southern parts of this zone
  • Warm/Arid: This zone includes the Southwest states. (Use warm season grass species, same as for warm/humid, see below).
  • Warm/Humid: This zone includes the Southeast and Gulf states. Warm season grasses are best adapted to this zone. Bermuda grass is the most common species used but can suffer winter damage in the most northern areas. Zoysia grass is widely used in the northern parts of this zone. For the Gulf Coast states, carpetgrass, bahia grass, St. Augustine and Seashore Paspalum are widely used.
  • Transition: This zone extends through the central part of the United States and includes parts of each of the other four zones. Because the transition zone has cold winters that can kill warm-season grasses and hot summers that can kill cool-season species, this zone is the most challenging in which to grow turf grass. Many turf experts recommend tall turf type fescue for the transition zone as it is the most drought tolerant of the cool season grasses, and it is tolerant of cold winters as well. Other experts recommend using the most cold tolerant warm season grasses such as Yukon Bermuda.

When planning a new yard or wanting to make-over an existing yard, choose the grass species that best fits your conditions. Know your climate zone and pick a cool season grass or warm season grass that is best adapted to your zone. Picking the right grass is really the most important step!

Question for the week: What zone do you live in and what type of grass are you growing?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Improve Your Soil the LazyMan Way!

Published on February 24, 2013 in Gardening Basics and Uncategorized. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , , , .

If you knew there was a product that would greatly improve your soil, would you give it a try? There is such a product, and it’s called LazyMan Liquid Gold™. Each spring, many people choose to give back to their soil with an easy-to-apply liquid product that will improve not only the health of the soil, but it will also improve the workability of the soil. Whether you use a hand cultivator to work your flower beds or a rototiller to prepare your vegetable garden, LazyMan Liquid Gold™ will make your work a lot easier!

Here are some common questions that people have about LazyMan Liquid Gold™.

Question: What is LazyMan Liquid Gold™?
Answer: LazyMan Liquid Gold™ is an all natural, powerful liquid that can easily be mixed into your backpack or handheld sprayer, or it can be attached to your garden hose for dispersal. It is easy to use and there are multiple benefits.

  • Aeration: It helps reduce crusting, loosens up hard clay soils, aggregates sandy soil, and allows water and oxygen to better reach plant roots by reducing the surface tension between the water and the soil. LazyMan Liquid Gold™ is designed to decrease the surface tension between water and soil while improving the growth and activity of micro-organisms necessary for a healthy soil environment.
  • Dethatching: For lawns, thatch is a layer of grass stems, roots, clippings, and debris that settle on the ground and either slowly decompose and/or accumulate over time and cause a decline in the grass health. LazyMan Liquid Gold™ contains an advanced formulation of naturally occurring microbes that feed on dead plant tissue. The microbes accelerate the decomposition of thatch into nutrient rich humus. These microbes are also beneficial when applied to flower beds and gardens as the dead plant tissue is broken down more quickly, adding humus to the soil. Improved amounts of humus then improve the structure of the soil.
  • Soil Conditioning: LazyMan Liquid Gold™ adds organic compost to the soil through humic acids and kelp. The organic compost physically improves the soil and increases its water holding capacity which will help resist drought. The conditioners also improve the soil chemically by retaining the natural nutrients in the root zone and releasing the nutrients as plants need them. Lastly, the organic conditioners biologically stimulate plants and even increase germination and viability of seeds.

Question: Has research been done on the product?
Answer: Yes, there has been extensive research done on such things as the effects on plant seed, root growth and density, the effect on clay soil, the effect on turf density and so much more. Here is a link to the LazyMan™ research.

Question: Are there any photos that show the benefits of using LazyMan Liquid Gold™?
Answer: Yes, there are photos from the research that was done as well as photos that customers have sent in. Here is a link for before and after photos.

Question: How safe is the product?
Answer: LazyMan Liquid Gold™ is safe to use and is very environmentally friendly. It is safe to use around animals, pets, and people. However, when using any product, precautions should be taken to avoid direct skin or eye contact due to possible irritation.

Question: How often do you have to apply LazyMan Liquid Gold™?
Answer: This depends on the starting point of your soil; however there are general guidelines. LazyMan Liquid Gold™ is a very large molecule product and doesn’t break down easily. We recommend one initial application, followed by another application 6 weeks later. Depending on environmental factors, these initial treatments can last up to one year. You CAN NOT over apply the products and could use them every month if you desire to.

Question: What is the application rate?
Answer: Dilute 3 to 6 ounces (6 ounces recommended for first application) of LazyMan Liquid Gold™ with 5 gallons water for each 1,000 square feet or 1 to 2 gallons per acre of soil to be treated. The product may be applied with hose-end sprayer (set dial hose-end sprayers to 2 ounces per gallon), backpack sprayer, hand held sprayer, or through irrigation system. If sprayed, a thorough watering should follow application.

Question: How much coverage can I expect from a quart?
Answer: The coverage breakdown is as follows:

  • LazyMan Liquid Gold™ 1 quart – Up to 10,000 Square Feet
  • LazyMan Liquid Gold™ 1 gallon – Up to 40,000 Square Feet
  • LazyMan Liquid Gold™ 2 1/2 Gallons – Up to 100,000 Square Feet

Question: Are there any dangers with over applying?
Answer: No. This product is not like fertilizer where over applying can cause severe burning and even kill plants. These products are not “bioaccumulative” and will not build up in plants. They will NOT harm any type of plant or grass.

 
Question: When should I apply LazyMan™?
Answer: You can apply the product during any time of the year as long as the ground isn’t frozen. It is recommended applying when day time temperatures are a minimum of 35 degrees. Water the area for 15 minutes after applying the product.

Question: Can I apply LazyMan™ products before seeding or over-seeding my lawn?
Answer: Yes. You can apply the product before seeding, during seeding, or after seeding. The only effect you get from LazyMan™ products is positive and beneficial to young seedlings.

 
Question: Can I apply LazyMan Liquid Gold™ to my vegetable garden and flower beds.
Answer: Yes. LazyMan Liquid Gold™ can virtually be used throughout your entire landscape. If the product is used in the early spring before working the soil, the garden will rototill more easily, and a shovel or fork goes into raised beds much more easily. Hand cultivators in flower beds will penetrate and loosen the soil more easily, and weeds will pull out with less resistance.

 
Question: What is the shelf life of the product?
Answer: It is recommended that the LazyMan™ products be used within two years after purchase.

Using LazyMan Liquid Gold™ is such an easy and effective way to improve soil each year.  You’ll love the results of this amazing product!

 
Question for the week: What soil challenge do you have?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Improve Your Soil this Spring

Published on February 17, 2013 in Gardening Basics. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , , , .

Spring is just around the corner, and it’s the perfect time to start thinking about your landscape. Do you have goals for this next year? Some goals for this growing season might include having a bigger vegetable garden, improving the lawn, re-doing a flower bed, or putting in some new raised beds for herbs. The common factor that all of these goals have is soil – so, what’s the health of your soil like? Your flowers, vegetables, herbs, and lawns will only be as good as the soil they are growing in. Whether you have hard, clay soil, sandy soil that does not hold nutrients, or beautiful loamy soil, all soil can use some help. Healthy soil = healthy plants!

Fruit and vegetable gardens are robbed of nutrients with each harvest. In addition to the removal of nutrients, the garden soil’s structure and makeup is weakened. Without improving the soil, garden crops will successively become weaker and will produce smaller yields, and the plants will be susceptible to pests and diseases. Lawns, with kids playing and dogs running, become compacted Photo of LazyMan Soil Doctorand when the soil becomes compacted grass roots will not grow deeply. This makes your grass more susceptible to the heat and requires more water during the summer.

There is a simple way to keep the soil in your gardens, flower beds and lawns healthy and productive! Feed your soil, but not the way you might think by spreading synthetic granular fertilizers. Instead, put nutrients back into your soil the LazyMan™ way!

Outsidepride has an impressive product that will improve your soil and help your plants thrive. Whether you are growing vegetables, ornamentals, shrubs, ground covers, or lawns, LazyMan Soil Doctor™ will begin to improve soil quality immediately, and results can be visible within a few weeks. So, what is LazyMan Soil Doctor™ and what can it do for you?

LazyMan Soil Doctor™ is a powerful liquid that can easily be mixed into you backpack or handheld sprayer, or it can be attached to your garden hose for dispersal. It is easy to use and there are multiple benefits.

  • Aeration: It helps reduce crusting, loosens up hard clay soils, aggregates sandy soil, and allows water and oxygen to better reach plant roots by reducing the surface tension between the water and the soil. LazyMan Soil Doctor™ is designed to decrease the surface tension between water and soil while improving the growth and activity of micro-organisms necessary for a healthy soil environment.
  • Dethatching: For lawns, thatch is a layer of grass stems, roots, clippings, and debris that settle on the ground and either slowly decompose and/or accumulate over time and cause a decline in the grass health.  LazyMan Liquid Soil Doctor™ contains an advanced formulation of naturally occurring microbes that feed on dead plant tissue. The microbes accelerate the decomposition of thatch into nutrient rich humus. These microbes are also beneficial when applied to flower beds and gardens as the dead plant tissue is broken down more quickly, adding humus to the soil. Improved amounts of humus then improve the structure of the soil.
  • Soil Conditioning: LazyMan Soil Doctor™ adds organic compost to the soil through humic acids and kelp. The organic compostPhoto of before and after Soil Doctor physically improves the soil and increases its water holding capacity which will help resist drought. The conditioners also improve the soil chemically by retaining the natural nutrients in the root zone and releasing the nutrients as plants need them. Lastly, the organic conditioners biologically stimulate plants and even increase germination and viability of seeds.
  • 10-3-6 Fertilizer: The last component to LazyMan Soil Doctor™ is the liquid fertilizer which is biologically enhanced and which simultaneously addresses soil health and plant nutrition. This enhanced formulation contains a select grouping of highly beneficial soil microorganisms, kelp extracts and potassium humate. The liquid fertilizer is the ideal choice for turf, ornamental, agricultural and greenhouse applications.

You can feel good about using LazyMan Soil Doctor™ anywhere in your landscape! It is not just a temporary fix for soil, but instead, it is working to keep the soil productive and healthy. Start with a spring application of this product to feed your soil, and soon you will have flowers blooming, a crop of fruits and vegetables, and a thick, lush lawn for your family to play on and enjoy.

Question for the week: What is your biggest soil challenge?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell