Archive for the 'Seeds' Category

Glorious Gaillardia

Published on August 19, 2012 in Garden Flowers and Wildflowers. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , , .

Once I get on a theme, it’s difficult for my focus to change! Here is yet another blog post dedicated to a flower that does not get enough attention! It is showy, long-blooming, very drought tolerant, attractive to bees and butterflies, and could easily be grown in most landscapes. The flower that I’d like to focus on this week is Gaillardia.

Photo of Gaillardia

Gaillardia aristata, Blanket Flower

There are 23 species of Gaillardia that are grown in the United States, but the 2 most common are Gaillardia pulchella, an annual, and Gaillardia aristata, a perennial. Both of these have the common names of Blanket Flower, Firewheel, and Indian Blanket Flower.

It is said that Gaillardia received the common name of Blanket Flower because of the way it used to blanket the American plains with colorful blooms during summer and fall. Indian Blanket Flower, as it is often called, was the name given because of the resemblance of its red, gold, and bronze shades to the traditional colors of Indian crafts.

Gaillardia is native to North America, and it can grow nearly anywhere in the United States. It was a medicinal herb for the American Indians who used the roots in a tea to treat gastroenteritis. The plant begins as a rosette with hairy, multi-lobed leaves, similar to a dandelion. The Gaillardia plant reaches 12 – 24 inches in height, forming a rounded clump that spreads 24 – 36 inches with soft, divided leaves and 2 – 3 inch single, semi-double, or double flowers held on stems above the foliage. As a result of hybridization, there are different colors and variations in petal shapes. The colors are yellow, orange, red, or bi-colors. The Gaillardia flowers are great for cutting, a food and nectar source for butterflies, bees and other beneficial insects, and the flowers will normally reseed themselves. Another benefit is that Blanket Flowers are usually deer resistant as well.

For the home landscape, Gaillardia is ideal for containers, planters, mass planting, and ground cover. When the Gaillardia plants are evenly spaced, they make a beautiful edging along walkways or driveways. Grow them as an accent plant in front of ever green shrubs. Wherever they are planted, Gaillardia flowers will bloom all summer right into the fall.

Gaillardia prefers full sun, sandy or loamy soil that drains well, yet it has a high tolerance for poor soils and rocky locations. It is very drought tolerant. In fact, Blanket Flower plants are a popular choice for use in low watering zones of Xeriscape.

Gaillardia propagation is by seed or root divisions planted in early spring. Here are some simple steps for growing Gaillardia from seed:

  • Select and prepare a site that is in full sun (6 – 8 hours each light of sun), loosen the soil and add compost, raking it smooth.
  • Scatter the Blanket Flower seeds over the surface and lightly rake 1/8 inch of soil over the top of the flower seeds.
  • Keep the soil moist for germination.
  • Once a set of true leaves appear, thin Gaillardia seedlings to about 18 inches apart.

Gaillardia care includes the following:

  • Once established, water Gaillardia plants sparingly, letting the soil dry out between waterings. Too much water will cause root rot.
  • A slow-release all purpose fertilizer can be added to the soil at the time of planting, or liquid fertilizers can be applied every month during the flowering season.
  • To promote continued flowering, remove the faded flowers.
  • At the end of the season, leave some blooms to let their seeds drop. Cut back the foliage and cover with a light mulch for winter protection.
  • The perennial Blanket Flower should be divided every 2 – 3 years or when the inside of the Gaillardia plant becomes woody.

I hope that after reading this blog that you’re as excited about this very beneficial Gaillardia as I am! During summer, Gaillardias truly make any flower garden bright and cheery. They are not invasive and will only spread as far as you desire for them to spread. If you like to attract beneficial insects, Gaillardia will provide nectar for them and beauty and enjoyment for you!

Question of the week: What has your experience growing Gaillardia been?

By Kimberly Bell

Eupatorium, More than Just a Pretty Flower

Published on August 13, 2012 in Garden Flowers and Wildflowers. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , .

Following the theme of last week’s blog, I would again like to feature some perennial wildflowers that are attractive to butterflies and other beneficial insects. Two closely related perennials that are rich in nectar for beneficials, showy and attractive in the garden, and also have medicinal value are:

  • Eupatorium perfoliatum, known as Common Boneset, and
  • Eupatorium maculatum, known as Joe Pye Weed
Photo of Boneset plant

Eupatorium perfoliatum – Boneset

Eupatorium dates back to 115 BC and was named from the Greek name Mithridates Eupator, king of Pontus. It was said that he had discovered an antidote to a commonly used poison using a plant of this species. In general, Eupatorium prefers a specific growing environment such as:

- full sun to partial shade
- wet ground, on the edges of swamps, along streams, in meadows and marshlands
- sandy, loamy or limy soil

Boneset is native to North America, found in the eastern and central portions of the United States, and it was a widely used herb among American Indians. It was a medicinal herb used to make a tea that treated influenza and respiratory conditions. Other common names for Eupatorium perfoliatum are: Feverwort, Ague Weed, Indian Sage, Wood Boneset, Crosswort, and Sweating Plant. There are chemical ingredients in Boneset such as flavonoids and terpenoids that have antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial benefits.

Eupatorium perfoliatum can reach up to 5 feet tall, and it blooms from July through October. The flower heads are large and flat and are made of ¼ inch white flowers. The flowers are showy, long-lived and very attractive to wildlife. The leaves have a wrinkled texture, and they grow on opposite sides of the stem, but they are joined at the base, encircling the stem. It appears that the stem is growing through the leaf, so to ancient herbalists, this indicated that the plant would be useful in setting bones. The Boneset leaves were wrapped with bandages around splints to heal broken bones.

Photo of Joe Pye Weed

Eupatorium maculatum – Joe Pye Weed

Joe Pye Weed is tall, up to 6 feet, and bushy with stems that are spotted or evenly purplish. The leaves are sharply toothed and form in whorls of 4 – 5. The flat-topped, branched cluster of flowers is in shades of pink to purple and is lightly scented. Bloom time is July through September and the flowers are very showy especially when planted in mass plantings.

Other common names for Eupatorium maculatum are: Spotted Joe Pye Weed, Purple Boneset, and Spotted Trumpet Weed. This Eupatorium also has medicinal benefits. The legend behind Eupatorium maculatum is that an American Indian, Joe Pye, used this plant to cure fevers and treated American colonists during an outbreak of typhus.

Eupatorium is attractive to birds, butterflies and bees with E. maculatum being the favorite of butterflies. It provides nectar for butterflies such as the Giant Swallowtail, Tiger Swallowtail and the Orange Sulphur. Sadly, it is more and more difficult to find Eupatorium in the wild, but nurseries that carry native plants will often have it available for purchase.

Propagation of Eupatorium is either through plant division or seeds. Eupatorium seeds can be started in either late fall (dormant planting) or early spring. Spread the wildflower seeds over a prepared seedbed that is weed free and tamp the seeds in, covering with no more than 1/8 inch of soil. Keep the seedbed moist. Pinch back the young Eupatorium seedlings to promote shorter, bushier plants that are not as vulnerable to the wind. Once grown, apply a balanced liquid fertilizer when the flower heads appear and apply every other week until flowering is done. Eupatorium plants can be divided in spring or fall.

Whether you chose to have Eupatorium stand alone in a mass planting or select one or two plants for the back of the flower border, this attractive perennial will give a wonderful, long-lasting display and will be attractive to beneficial insects. In addition … you have some great folklore to share with your neighbors on the history of these plants!

Question of the week: Which of the two Eupatorium plants are you going to grow first?

By Kimberly Bell

Echinacea, A Butterfly Attracting Perennial

Published on August 5, 2012 in Garden Flowers and Wildflowers. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , .

If you have been reading my blogs for the past few weeks, you might get the idea that I love flowers. I do! One of my goals this year for my own flower garden was to attract butterflies, and when I did some research on what perennials to grow for butterflies, Purple Coneflower was at the top of the list. Let me share some of their beauty with you!

Photo of Purple Coneflower

Butterflies love Echinacea, Purple Coneflower

Echinacea, or Purple Coneflower as it’s commonly called, can be described as a vigorous perennial that is fairly drought tolerant, performs well in full sun to partial shade, and likes well-drained, fertile soil with a neutral pH. Echinacea will grow in USDA Zones 4 – 9, and some species will perform in zones 3 – 10. They are native to the mid-western and southeastern United States. Many species will form a clump up to 3 feet wide and will reach 3 feet in height with a long taproot giving them good drought tolerance once well-established.

Echinacea will enhance any flower border or garden, and it’s lovely when grown in meadows and naturalized settings. The flowers are aromatic, daisy-like with slightly drooping petals and normally in shades of lavender and purple (although some cultivars are red, white and yellow) with an iridescent orange-red-brown, coned center. The name comes from the Greek word ‘echinos’ which means hedgehog and refers to the spiny cone. The flowers are arranged individually on long, sturdy stems, and the foliage is simple, lance-shaped and slightly rough. Their bloom season is long, lasting much of the summer and into the fall. Echinacea is great for cutting with a long vase-life of 5 – 7 days.

The Most Common Echinacea Species:

Echinacea purpurea, Purple Coneflower, is the species most often seen in residential gardens. It performs best in lower elevations where winters are milder. It also tolerates wet soil.

Echinacea angustfolia, also called Narrow Leaf Purple Coneflower, grows best at higher elevations where winters are cold.

Echinacea pallida, known as Pale Purple Coneflower, has petals that are extremely drooping.

Echinacea paradoxa, Yellow Coneflower.

Photo of Yellow Coneflower

Echinacea paradoxa

How to Grow Echinacea:

Commercial growers recommend a pretreatment of cold/moist stratification for 30 – 90 days prior to planting Echinacea seeds in the spring after frost season has passed. In a prepared seedbed that is weed free, broadcast Echinacea seeds at a rate of 12 pounds per acre. Lightly rake the seeds into the soil, covering the seed with no more than 1/8 inch of soil. Keep the seeds moist, and with an optimal temperature of 70°-75°F, germination is usually within 2 – 4 weeks. Propagation from root cuttings is also reliable when done in the fall.

Echinacea Care:

Deadheading the spent flowers will promote additional blooms; however, leaving the flowers to dry will also attract songbirds in the winter. Echinacea plants should be divided every few years to keep them blooming well. Echinacea does not compete well with weeds, so weeds must be kept cut down, and mulching around the base of the plants with organic matter will help suppress weeds. Extra fertilizer is not needed if organic mulches are added each year to the base of the Echinacea clump.

Medicinal Use:

Purple Coneflower was widely used by the American Indians as a remedy for illnesses and snake bites. Today, Echinacea is reported to improve the body’s immune system, and it’s used in treating respiratory illnesses, as an anti-inflammatory and in treating wounds. In commercial use, Echinacea roots are harvested after 3 – 4 years of growth as a medicinal herb, although the entire plant can be dried and used in teas.

I hope that you’ll agree with me, Echinacea is a marvelous perennial to add to your landscape! Not only do butterflies love to sip the rich nectar, but it’s a hardy flower that does not demand tremendous care in order for it to perform its best.

Question of the week: What species of Echinacea do you have growing in your landscape?

By Kimberly Bell

Dianthus – They Deserve Recognition!

Published on July 22, 2012 in Garden Flowers and Wildflowers. 3 Comments Tags: , , , , .

Today’s blog post features a flower that many people are familiar with, Dianthus. There is a wide range in colors, with shades of white, red, rose, dark red, lavender and pink, and a variety in form and sizes, but they are all wonderful performers and often sweetly scented. Here in Oregon, they are a flower that reliably blooms by the end of May, and my mom uses them each year in arrangements for Memorial Day. Dianthus deserves some special recognition today!

Photo of Sweet William

Dianthus barbatus ‘Holborn Glory’

There are many common names for Dianthus, including Sweet William, Pinks, Maiden Pink, Gillyflower and Carnation. Dianthus is from the Greek word for ‘flower of the gods.’ Their history goes all the way back to Greek and Roman times, and through the centuries Dianthus made their way from Europe and then to England and finally to colonial America. Many common names were attached along the way, but Dianthus species were an important part of the garden where they were not only charming, but they were also used in flavorings, wine, soups, sauces and jams.

Dianthus plants are versatile and lend themselves to different uses. There are dwarf and mat-forming varieties that are perfect for edging along a border, as a ground cover, or grown in containers. The medium to tall varieties are great grown in a cutting garden with other annuals and perennials, or they look especially nice growing in front of a back-drop of evergreen shrubs.

There are several species of Dianthus that could be high-lighted, but I’ll focus on the two most common:

Dianthus barbatus is the familiar Sweet William. It has been grown in many old-fashioned cottage gardens. It is a short-lived perennial or biennial and some newer varieties are annual. The name Sweet William is not in reference to a person but rather to the flower’s pleasant fragrance. The blooms of the species have a central spot called an eye. This Dianthus is hardy to Zone 4 and can range in height from 5 inches to 24 inches and has single or double flower clusters that form in late spring and into summer. The flowers are not always scented.

Photo of Dianthus

Dianthus chinensis ‘Merry-Go-Round’

Dianthus chinensis is the name for the pinks or China pinks (originally they came from China), and it can be an annual or biennial, but they will flower the first year when grown from seed. The common name, pink, does not refer to the color of the blooms but to the serrated edges of the blooms. To ‘pink’ in sewing means to notch like with pinking shears. The plants can range in size from 6 – 18 inches, and the blooms are not scented and can be single or double. These species will bloom intermittently throughout the summer, and they are very carefree.

Dianthus can easily be grown from seeds. For the earliest blooms, start the seeds indoors about 6 – 8 weeks before the end of frost season and plan on setting them out just before the last frost date. Use a moistened seed-starting mix in trays or pots, and press the Dianthus seeds into the soil, misting the surface to moisten the seeds. Sealing the container in a clear plastic bag is helpful in maintaining moisture. Maintain a temperature of 70°F. When sprouts are seen, remove the plastic and place the containers in a sunny, south-facing window. Water from the bottom and fertilize with water-soluble fertilizer from day 10 of seedling growth and then every 2 weeks until transplanting. Dianthus seeds for annual varieties can also be started directly outdoors in a prepared seedbed after danger of frost has passed.

Here are a few tips for growing Dianthus:

  • Dianthus plants are sun lovers and need at least 6 hours of direct sun each day. If they are grown in shade, they will have few blooms and the plants will be lanky and not as compact and well-shaped.
  • Deadhead the spent blooms to encourage re-blooming and prevent seeds from forming. Using Dianthus flowers for arrangements is a great way to promote new blooms, and the flowers have a long vase-life.
  • Many Dianthus will self-sow. Leaving a few blooms to go to seed will make an annual seem like a perennial.
  • For winter survival, lightly mulch over the roots as Dianthus plants are fairly shallow-rooted.
  • Grow Dianthus in well-drained soil, and either use a slow-release fertilizer when transplanting young plants into the bed, or use a balanced liquid fertilizer each month.
  • Give plants adequate spacing to allow for air movement. Remove any plant part with a sign of disease.

Dianthus flowers have a long history of popularity. They are loved for their ease in growing, low care requirements, and also for the wonderful variety of colors and forms. They definitely deserve some recognition!

Question for the week: How many varieties of Dianthus do you have growing in your yard?

By Kimberly Bell

Coreopsis Will Not Disappoint

Published on July 16, 2012 in Garden Flowers and Wildflowers. 2 Comments Tags: , , , , , .

Not too far from my home, there is a commercially grown field of Coreopsis. I’m not sure exactly what the species is, but what I am sure of is that it is absolutely breathtaking. The color is vivid and bold, and I know that it will continue to bloom for the majority of the summer yet. There are some flowers that must be written about and featured in my blog because of both their beauty and ease of care, and Coreopsis is definitely in that category.

The name Coreopsis comes from the Greek word ‘koris’ which means ‘bug’. Plants in the Coreopsis genus are commonly called Tickseed due to the seeds resembling little ticks. There are some species that are annuals and some that are perennials, and both grow readily from seeds. In general, Coreopsis prefers to live in full sun and tolerates partial shade. The plants are not picky about soils, but a neutral pH and a well-draining soil is best. Instead of producing more blooms, over fertilizing Coreopsis will result with less blooms and floppy plants. Once established, Coreopsis is fairly heat and drought tolerant. The flowers are excellent for cutting and last for most or all of the summer, attracting butterflies and other beneficial insects. Coreopsis is great for flower beds and borders as well as naturalized meadows and prairies, and the plants are usually deer resistant.

Here are some of the most well-known species of Coreopsis:

Photo of Plains Coreopsis

Plains Coreopsis

Coreopsis tinctoria is referred to as Plains Coreopsis. It is an annual that is native to North America, primarily the Great Plains and the Southern United States. It is a marvelous performer giving non-stop color of bright yellow flowers with maroon centers. It has finely divided leaves and handles wet, soggy conditions better other Coreopsis.

Coreopsis lanceolata is commonly known as Lance Leaf Coreopsis. It is a perennial that forms a clump and has short rhizomes, and it is primarily found in the eastern and mid-western portions of the United States. The flowers are 1 – 2 inches, daisy-like and bright yellow with a yellow center, and the leaves are narrow and oval or ‘lance-shaped.’ Lance Leaf Coreopsis is a spring bloomer and will bloom into the summer and longer especially if it is deadheaded.

Coreopsis grandiflora is sometimes called Large-Flowered Tickseed. This species is also perennial that forms clumps and has rhizomes, so it is often found in colonies. As the common name suggests, this Coreopsis has large flowers that measure 2 ½ inches across. They are yellow with a yellow center and somewhat ragged edges on the ends of the petals. The leaves are linear pinnate and occur along the stems, usually in opposite pairs. Blooming usually starts in June and can last into fall.

Coreopsis verticillata goes by the common name of Whorled Tickseed or Threadleaf Coreopsis. It is found mainly in the Southeastern United States. It is also a perennial that forms a clump or rounded plant with yellow, daisy-like flowers, and it has an ultra fine texture. The foliage is extremely fine and needle-like, and it whorls around the thin upright stems.

Photo of Lance Leaf Coreopsis

Lance Leaf Coreopsis

There are many cultivars within each species and the colors (reds and rose shades added), blooms (double and semi-double), and sizes (dwarf and various heights) have been enhanced to make excellent plants for sunny flower gardens or borders. Propagation is by seed (or division for perennials) that can be started directly outside in a prepared seedbed in the early spring after frost season has ended. The Coreopsis seeds can be lightly raked into weed free soil and kept moist until germination. The plants should be watered regularly until they are nicely established. Coreopsis is a marvelous plant with a wide variety of cultivars to fit just perfectly in the landscape, and they will perform and will not disappoint!

 

Question for the weed: What cultivar of Coreopsis are you growing in your garden?

By Kimberly Bell

5 Steps to Create a Wildflower Meadow

Published on May 20, 2012 in Wildflowers. 0 Comments Tags: , , .

Nature does a wonderful job of providing beauty! Driving by a meadow of wildflowers can actually take our breath away for a few moments. We’re compelled to stop, pull over to the side of the road, and just drink in the loveliness of the colors and textures as they gently sway in the summer breeze. Many gardeners are inspired to create their own lovely natural landscape, and not only is this very possible, but it also has several benefits as well. A wildflower meadow that has been carefully and properly grown is:Wildflowers

  • Lovely to look at!
  • Less maintenance than lawns or gardens
  • Good for requiring less input like water and fertilizer
  • Helpful in reducing soil erosion
  • Beneficial in creating biodiversity which mean fewer pests and less disease
  • Great for attracting wildlife

Buying a good wildflower mix is half of the key to success. Many people assume that wildflowers will give color from spring through fall, but there are very few species that offer continuous blooming. Wildflower mixtures are formulated with a wide variety of species to give some color in spring, summer and fall. They are also mixed with various species to offer the greatest range of colors: blue, purple, red, white, yellow and pink. Wildflower mixtures are also formulated with climate conditions in mind: rainfall, temperatures, elevation and humidity.

There are mixtures for every possible setting! Here are a few for example:

  • Regional wildflower mixtures – these species are chosen to perform well in a specific geographic location and the climate conditions within that location.
  • Specialty wildflower mixtures – these are species that are chosen for a specific purpose such as low-growing, deer resistant, or partial shade.
  • Color mixtures – these are annual species that are chosen to give a specific color display. All the species in the mix are shades of one color. There are mixes in shades of blue, green, orange, pink, red, yellow, and white.
  • Individual Species – if a person loves a particular wildflower, like Texas Bluebonnets, or has specifications for color or height, the seed for individual species can be purchased separately.

Wildflower meadows that occur naturally are usually a combination of native grasses and forbs (flowering meadow wildflowers). Grasses often germinate and establish more quickly giving erosion control and competition for weeds while the wildflower seed germinates and grows. If calculating grass seed into the seeding rate, figure that the grass will be about ¼ of the seed that is planted.  For example, if the seeding rate is 12 pounds per acre, 9 pounds would be wildflower seed and 3 pounds would be grass seed.

To have a successful wildflower setting, it’s important to do some research. Just scattering seeds out onto the ground and expecting a lovely display to spring up is not realistic. Nor is it realistic to believe that there is no maintenance involved in a wildflower meadow. Here are some steps that will help to ensure that the lovely vision that is in our mind is more likely to become a reality in our landscape.

5 Steps to Create a Wildflower Meadow:

chart

 

Creating a wildflower meadow can be one of the most rewarding gardening experiences. Envision your landscape with lovely colorful blooms that ask for little but give lots of natural beauty.

Question for the week: What’s your favorite wildflower?

By Kimberly Bell

Starting Seeds Outdoors

Published on March 18, 2012 in Gardening Basics and Seeds. 4 Comments Tags: , , , , .

There are rays of sunlight and blue skies peaking around the dark gray rain clouds. The daffodils are in full bloom, and the tulips are getting ready to make an appearance. The switch has been made to daylight saving time, and spring officially starts next week. For gardeners everywhere, these are all wonderful signs that our time in the garden is right around the corner!

For all of us who are anxious to get started with seeds, last week I shared some Master Gardener tips on starting seed indoors. But many seeds can and should be directly started outdoors. In today’s blog post I will share some suggestions and more practical MG advice on getting those outdoor plantings off to a great start!

When planting seed outside, good soil preparation is critical. Ideal soil is deep, easily worked, well-drained and contains at least 5% organic matter. How you work the soil is really up to you, the size of area that needs to be prepared, and the budget you have for gardening. Options would include hand digging with a fork or spade, using a power rototiller, or using a garden tractor. Whichever option you choose, there are a couple of things to remember:

1)      Do not work the soil when it is too wet. Working wet soils can destroy the soil structure and can create compaction which will make it difficult for plant roots to grow. Here are a couple of ways to measure the moisture level:

  • Do a squeeze test to see if the soil is dry enough to work: Take a handful of soil and squeeze. If it forms a mud ball and stays, it is too wet to work. If it crumbles freely, it is probably dry enough to work.
  • Dig into the soil and turn it over. If soil sticks to the spade or shovel, or the surface of the turned soil is shiny and smooth, it is still too wet.

2)      When you starting working the soil, do not pulverize it. Even though that powdery, fluffy soil is so pleasing to the eye, it is a problem waiting to happen. Over-working the soil destroys soil structure and promotes crusting which decreases water permeability, and it also increases erosion.

When the soil is being worked, it is the perfect time to add in some aged manure or compost. It is preferable to have several weeks before planting to allow the soil amendments to be broken down by soil microorganisms, and if you have rain or water that freshly worked soil, weed seeds that were lying dormant in the soil have come to the surface and germinated. Removing that first flush of weeds allows the seeds that you want to plant have less competition when they are establishing and gives you the upper hand on weed management.

Another critical aspect of planting seeds outdoors is temperature. Both air temperature and soil temperature affects the seeds’ germination and growth, and each different seed has its own minimum temperatures. The planting directions listed on the seed packets will specify minimum temperatures. For example, peas can go into the soil when it is a minimum of 34 – 36F, but corn needs a minimum soil temperature of 60 – 65F. For flower seeds, soil temperature of 55F or warmer is desirable. Seed that is planted in cold soil can potentially rot. A soil thermometer is a useful tool to use when preparing to plant. To have an accurate soil temperature reading, check the soil temperature at 9am at a 2-inch depth for 7 consecutive days.

The types of seed that you are planting will also determine the method for spreading the seed. If you’re planting vegetable seed, rows or hills are most often used. If you’re starting wildflowers or clover, broadcasting the seed would be the method to use. Again, the planting directions that come with the seed will suggest how to plant and the depth at which to plant the seed.

Once the seeds are in place, adequate moisture is critical. Watering is what activates the seed’s embryo to grow and start the germination process. A dry period can kill the seed. Once seedlings have emerged, the watering needs to be frequent for the first 2 weeks. With busy schedules that are not always conducive to keeping a diligent irrigation schedule, consider purchasing a timer for a hose that you can program to come on regularly. As the plants become more established, watering can be less frequent to encourage roots to grow deeper. So, water for a longer duration but less often. For plants that have a specific water requirement (like lawns need 1 inch per week), place empty tuna fish cans under your sprinkler area to determine how long the water needs to be applied to reach the specific requirement.

Weeds … that’s a battle that starts as soon as the ground is worked and it deserves an entire blog post dedicated to weed management. So, look forward to the topic of weeds next week!

Question for the week: What is your biggest challenge with starting seeds outdoors?

By Kimberly Bell

 

 

Starting Seeds Indoors

Published on March 9, 2012 in Gardening Basics and Seeds. 4 Comments Tags: , , .

Here we are yet another week closer to spring, and I’m hearing from so many people that spring fever has hit hard! It is not too early to plan our gardens and additions to our landscape and maybe even start some seeds indoors. For today’s blog post, I want to share some of the Master Gardener information that is very practical and helpful on starting seeds indoors.

When you tear open a packet of seeds, what can you expect? The general rule is that you should not expect more than 65 – 80 percent of the seeds to germinate. From the seeds that germinated, expect 60 – 75 percent to produce vigorous seedlings. Our expectations may be quite a bit higher than this, and we may feel like we have done something terribly wrong if we do not see 100 percent germination. But 100 percent germination is not a reasonable expectation, and we can relax and give ourselves a break with that knowledge.

What about the seed that’s been sitting out in the garage for 2 – 3 years? Is it good anymore? The general rule is to purchase only the amount of seed that is needed for the current year. But if plans change, seed can be kept from year to year. The key to keeping seed is to ensure that the seed stays cool and dry. Laminated foil packages are the best for keeping seeds dry. If the seed is in a paper packet, place the packet in a tightly closed jar. A temperature of 40F is the best for keeping seed, so find a place in your refrigerator for a recycled, sealed mayonnaise jar with seed packets inside.

The soil medium that is used for germinating seeds is very important to consider. It needs to be uniform, fine, loose and well-aerated. It also should be sterile so that it is free from disease organisms, weed seeds, and insects. The medium can be purchased from a garden supply store. One common disease that affects seed is damping off. Damping off is a fungal disease found in soils that causes the seed or seedlings to rot. Help avoid this disease by using sterile soil.

What types of containers should you use? There is a host of seed starting supplies too numerous to list. Some creative recycled items that you might already have around your home would be:

  • Cottage cheese-type containers
  • Bottoms of milk cartons or bleach containers
  • Aluminum foil pie pans
  • Egg cartons
  • Used paper or plastic cups

Each of the above items needs to be thoroughly washed and have several holes punched into the bottom for adequate drainage.

Some people prefer to purchase starter trays, plastic cell packs, small clay pots, peat pots, or peat pellets. It truly is up to you and your preferences. The container is just going to provide a temporary home for the seed and seedling. The advantage of using peat pots or peat pellets is that they can be planted directly into the garden. Plant roots grow right through the sides. However, care needs to be taken when planting outdoors that the rim of the pot or pellet is below the soil surface. If it’s not, the exposed edges act like a wick drawing moisture away for the plant roots.

If you use your pots from year to year, don’t forget to clean them. Pots, trays, tools and the surface you are working on should be cleaned. Remove excess dirt then soak in a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach to 10 parts water for several minutes.

A common mistake is to start seeds indoors too early and then holding the seedlings back. The result is usually tall, weak, spindly plants that do not perform well once they get to the garden. Know the date of the last expected frost for your area, know how long germination is for the type of seed you are starting, and count back the number of days that are needed.

Here are some easy step-by-step directions:

  • Fill your containers within ¾ inch from the top with pre-moistened soil medium.
  • Know what the recommended planting depth for your seed is. Extremely small seeds are only pressed into the soil. A general rule for planting depth is twice the diameter of the seed.
  • Place the containers in 1 inch of water, allow time for water to be soaked up and then drain for an hour or more.
  • Seal the containers in a clear plastic bag to keep moisture in the soil and seed.
  • Keep the required temperature range needed for the seed to germinate.
  • Check the containers daily for 1) signs of drying out, 2) seed beginning to sprout.
  • Remove from plastic as the first seedlings appear.
  • Set seedlings in a south-facing window or use 2 40-watt cool, white fluorescent lights positioned 10 inches above the seedlings. Allow for 16 hours of light each day.
  • As seedlings grow, repot if necessary to a larger pot. Handle the seedlings by their leaves not their stems.
  • If the seedlings are pale or discolored, an application of water-soluble fertilizer that is for houseplants (used at ½ the recommended rate) can be used once or twice before the seedlings are transplanted outdoors.
  • Gradually acclimatize or harden seedlings for 2 weeks before planting outside. Place the plants outside for 1 – 2 hours in partial shade and gradually increase the time each day. Let the plants stay out 1 – 2 nights before planting out.
  • Choose a cloudy, cool day for transplanting the seedlings out into their permanent location, or wait until evening. Moderate conditions will better the chances of the seedlings’ survival.

 

I hope that something in today’s blog was helpful. I certainly see where I have made some mistakes in the past, and why I haven’t always had the success that I wanted. Next week, we’ll continue on with plant propagation and look at starting seeds directly outside.

Question for the week: What are the seeds that you plan on starting first?

By Kimberly Bell

 

 

Plant Propagation With Seeds

Published on March 2, 2012 in Gardening Basics and Seeds. 4 Comments Tags: , , , , .

Now that March has arrived, do you feel the longing to get outside and work in the gardens and landscape again? I sure am anxious to get out and put some of the Master Gardener material into practical use! I’m especially anxious to start some seeds, and that leads us to today’s blog post on plant propagation.

If you’ve been following along, you’ll remember that a couple of weeks back we examined the anatomy of plants, both the vegetative and sexual parts. You might recall that the purpose of lovely flowering plants is for seed production and to continue that particular species of plant. For today’s post, I would like to study sexual propagation, which is through seed (or spores for ferns), and specifically the anatomy of a seed and how germination occurs.

Digram of a seedSexual propagation involves the floral parts of one or more plants to unite pollen with the egg or ovule, and a fertilized, matured ovule is a seed. When you look at a seed, you notice the outer coat which may be hard. The outer seed coat serves as protection against parasites, against being crushed, and sometimes against unfavorable temperatures. Within the hard seed exterior is the embryo. It is a young plant with adult parts, roots and leaves. The embryo’s leaves are called cotyledons, and the root is called the radicle. The endosperm (the dotted inner portion of the seed) is a food reserve of fat and carbohydrates which will nourish the plant in its early stages of development.

When environmental conditions are just right, germination begins, and the young plant begins to actively grow. There are 4 Diagram of growing from seedenvironmental factors:

  • Water
  • Light
  • Oxygen
  • Heat

Water is essential to ensure germination. Seeds can absorb or imbibe water, and the soil medium needs to provide an adequate amount of continuous water. A dry period will kill the embryo. Water absorption triggers an enzyme that begins cell multiplication, and the embryo becomes too large and bursts through the seed coat. The radicle, or root, is the first part to emerge, and it anchors the seed in place allowing the embryo to absorb water and nutrients from the soil medium.

Light can either stimulate or inhibit germination. Some seeds require light for germination such as ageratum, impatiens or lettuce. Other seeds, such as calendula or verbena, require darkness. For many seeds, light doesn’t matter at all. When sowing seeds that require light, the seeds should be placed on the soil surface and gently pressed into the soil. At the most, the seed could be covered lightly with fine peat moss which will allow some light in.

All viable seed needs oxygen for respiration to occur. Respiration is the conversion of stored nutrients into energy. Respiration in seed that is non-germinating is low, but during germination, respiration increases. To help ensure that the oxygen supply is high, the soil medium should be loose and well-aerated. If the soil is too packed or water-logged, limiting the oxygen, germination can be inhibited.

Temperature is the last crucial environmental factor in germination. The soil medium temperature can affect both the germination percentage as well as the speed of germination. Generally, 65  – 75F is best for most plants. In certain circumstances, it may be necessary to place the germination trays on radiators or heating mats to maintain the required temperature.

Seed dormancy prevents the seed from germinating until it is in the right environment. In some seeds, it is difficult to break the dormancy, and there are various treatments that are used to break dormancy and stimulate germination.

Seed scarification: The seed coat is tough, and scarification involves breaking, scratching or softening the coat. Treatments include: filing the seed with sandpaper or metal file, cracking the seed with a hammer, or pouring hot water (170  – 212F) over the seed and letting it cool and allowing the seed to soak 12 – 24 hours before planting.

Seed stratification: This is a treatment that provides an artificial time of chilling for seeds that require a cold, dormant period before germination. A procedure to follow: Wet peat moss thoroughly and squeeze out excess water, mix the seeds with the moss, place the material in a plastic bag and secure the top, place the bag in the refrigerator (temperature range should be 35  – 45F) for 10 – 12 weeks. After this chilling time, plant the seeds in pots. Handle carefully as small roots may have emerged by this time.

Seeds and the process of germination are absolutely fascinating! What a mystery seed is as we watch its life unfold before our eyes. We sow a little seed and with hopeful anticipation, watch for the first signs of life. I think that spring fever is in the air!

Next week, I would like to write about planting seeds and little tips and strategies to help plant propagation with seed be a success!

Question for the week: What is your favorite seed to grow and why?

 

Diagram on the anatomy of a sees: http://gardening.wsu.edu/library/vege004/vege004.htm

Diagram on the stages of germination: Britannica Online

By Kimberly Bell