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Organic Lawn Care, part 3

Published on May 14, 2013 in Lawn Care and Uncategorized. 1 Comment Tags: , , , , , , , .

These last few weeks, we have been looking at organic lawn care practices, and today’s blog examines the benefits of applying top dressings to lawns. There has been a considerable amount of university-based research on the improved performance of turf with the use of top dressings of compost. Today, the practice of top dressing is used by many who prefer a more organic approach to lawn maintenance as well professional turf managers of sports fields and golf courses.

What is a top dressing? Simply put, it is a thin layer of material, ¼ to ½ inch that is spread over the top of the turf. The materials used for top dressing can include sand, soil, composts or a mixture of any of these. The best times of year to top dress are in the fall before frosts are expected or in the spring after the first mowing. Adding a top dressing is a way to slowly add organic amendments to the soil and improve it without disturbing the growth of the grass. The improvements in the soil might not be immediately visible, but following a routine over a period of several years, the following list of benefits is attributed to top dressings of compost:

  • Provide nutrients
  • Increase organic matter
  • Improve soil structure
  • Reduce irrigation
  • Reduce thatch
  • Improve surface irregularities
  • Add beneficial microbes
  • Reduce winter damage
  • Reduce weeds
  • Reduce nutrient loss to surface and ground water

photo of top dressing for lawnComposted material is easily added to gardens or beds where the large clumps are usually left to further breakdown. But with grass, it’s helpful to sieve the compost so that the large clumps are removed and put back into the compost bin. A homemade screen can be made from 2 x 4s and made to fit over a wheel barrow. Use a piece of hardware cloth that has ½ inch openings, and secure the piece to the wooden frame. The organic material to be placed on the lawn should be dry and easily pass through the screen. Once you have the material screened, you can spread it by using a large drop spreader, by dumping small piles and then raking it out, or by simply using a shovel and flinging the material over the lawn. Typically only ¼ to ½ inch of top dressing is applied. At least half of the leaf height should be visible or the grass may be killed by a lack of sunlight. Except for areas in the turf grass that are already thin with soil exposed, a top dressing should not be visible.

Top dressings can be used to even out bumps and swales. In this case the top dressing may be a mix of soil and composted material, and the depth may be deeper. The area can then be over-seeded with grass seed. Lightly rake the seed into the top dressing and keep the area moist for good germination and establishment. Lawn overseeding should be done when the soil temperature is optimal for your specific area.

Core aeration can be done before or after top dressing, and it helps to incorporate the organic material into the soil. Irrigating after the application of top dressing also helps integrate the compost down into the turf.

If you do your own composting, you know exactly what is in the compost and how well-processed it is. Many home owners find themselves looking for compost to purchase. When purchasing compost, it is important to find a reputable supplier who can provide an analysis of the product. How do you know how much to purchase? First, determine the amount of surface area to be covered then multiply the area by the depth of compost desired (in feet).

For a 5000 square foot lawn being covered with ¼ inch of compost, the math would be 5000 feet2 lawn x 0.02 ft compost = 100 feet3. Usually, compost is sold by the cubic yard. Divide 100 feet3 by 27 = 3.7 yards3. So, for a 5000 square foot lawn, 4 cubic yards of compost would cover it at a depth of ¼ inch.

Many homeowners have replaced synthetic fertilizers with a yearly top dressing. It may involve more work, but as composted materials continue to breakdown into the lawn and add nutrients to the soil the results begin to become obviously visible and rewarding. A healthy lawn is better able to recover from dormancy, tolerate a summer drought, resist a disease outbreak, or repair after heavy wear and tear from foot traffic, and top dressing definitely results in a healthier lawn.

Question for the week: Have you ever top dressed your home lawn?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Photo from: http://www.compostjunkie.com

Improve Your Soil the LazyMan Way!

Published on February 24, 2013 in Gardening Basics and Uncategorized. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , , , .

If you knew there was a product that would greatly improve your soil, would you give it a try? There is such a product, and it’s called LazyMan Liquid Gold™. Each spring, many people choose to give back to their soil with an easy-to-apply liquid product that will improve not only the health of the soil, but it will also improve the workability of the soil. Whether you use a hand cultivator to work your flower beds or a rototiller to prepare your vegetable garden, LazyMan Liquid Gold™ will make your work a lot easier!

Here are some common questions that people have about LazyMan Liquid Gold™.

Question: What is LazyMan Liquid Gold™?
Answer: LazyMan Liquid Gold™ is an all natural, powerful liquid that can easily be mixed into your backpack or handheld sprayer, or it can be attached to your garden hose for dispersal. It is easy to use and there are multiple benefits.

  • Aeration: It helps reduce crusting, loosens up hard clay soils, aggregates sandy soil, and allows water and oxygen to better reach plant roots by reducing the surface tension between the water and the soil. LazyMan Liquid Gold™ is designed to decrease the surface tension between water and soil while improving the growth and activity of micro-organisms necessary for a healthy soil environment.
  • Dethatching: For lawns, thatch is a layer of grass stems, roots, clippings, and debris that settle on the ground and either slowly decompose and/or accumulate over time and cause a decline in the grass health. LazyMan Liquid Gold™ contains an advanced formulation of naturally occurring microbes that feed on dead plant tissue. The microbes accelerate the decomposition of thatch into nutrient rich humus. These microbes are also beneficial when applied to flower beds and gardens as the dead plant tissue is broken down more quickly, adding humus to the soil. Improved amounts of humus then improve the structure of the soil.
  • Soil Conditioning: LazyMan Liquid Gold™ adds organic compost to the soil through humic acids and kelp. The organic compost physically improves the soil and increases its water holding capacity which will help resist drought. The conditioners also improve the soil chemically by retaining the natural nutrients in the root zone and releasing the nutrients as plants need them. Lastly, the organic conditioners biologically stimulate plants and even increase germination and viability of seeds.

Question: Has research been done on the product?
Answer: Yes, there has been extensive research done on such things as the effects on plant seed, root growth and density, the effect on clay soil, the effect on turf density and so much more. Here is a link to the LazyMan™ research.

Question: Are there any photos that show the benefits of using LazyMan Liquid Gold™?
Answer: Yes, there are photos from the research that was done as well as photos that customers have sent in. Here is a link for before and after photos.

Question: How safe is the product?
Answer: LazyMan Liquid Gold™ is safe to use and is very environmentally friendly. It is safe to use around animals, pets, and people. However, when using any product, precautions should be taken to avoid direct skin or eye contact due to possible irritation.

Question: How often do you have to apply LazyMan Liquid Gold™?
Answer: This depends on the starting point of your soil; however there are general guidelines. LazyMan Liquid Gold™ is a very large molecule product and doesn’t break down easily. We recommend one initial application, followed by another application 6 weeks later. Depending on environmental factors, these initial treatments can last up to one year. You CAN NOT over apply the products and could use them every month if you desire to.

Question: What is the application rate?
Answer: Dilute 3 to 6 ounces (6 ounces recommended for first application) of LazyMan Liquid Gold™ with 5 gallons water for each 1,000 square feet or 1 to 2 gallons per acre of soil to be treated. The product may be applied with hose-end sprayer (set dial hose-end sprayers to 2 ounces per gallon), backpack sprayer, hand held sprayer, or through irrigation system. If sprayed, a thorough watering should follow application.

Question: How much coverage can I expect from a quart?
Answer: The coverage breakdown is as follows:

  • LazyMan Liquid Gold™ 1 quart – Up to 10,000 Square Feet
  • LazyMan Liquid Gold™ 1 gallon – Up to 40,000 Square Feet
  • LazyMan Liquid Gold™ 2 1/2 Gallons – Up to 100,000 Square Feet

Question: Are there any dangers with over applying?
Answer: No. This product is not like fertilizer where over applying can cause severe burning and even kill plants. These products are not “bioaccumulative” and will not build up in plants. They will NOT harm any type of plant or grass.

 
Question: When should I apply LazyMan™?
Answer: You can apply the product during any time of the year as long as the ground isn’t frozen. It is recommended applying when day time temperatures are a minimum of 35 degrees. Water the area for 15 minutes after applying the product.

Question: Can I apply LazyMan™ products before seeding or over-seeding my lawn?
Answer: Yes. You can apply the product before seeding, during seeding, or after seeding. The only effect you get from LazyMan™ products is positive and beneficial to young seedlings.

 
Question: Can I apply LazyMan Liquid Gold™ to my vegetable garden and flower beds.
Answer: Yes. LazyMan Liquid Gold™ can virtually be used throughout your entire landscape. If the product is used in the early spring before working the soil, the garden will rototill more easily, and a shovel or fork goes into raised beds much more easily. Hand cultivators in flower beds will penetrate and loosen the soil more easily, and weeds will pull out with less resistance.

 
Question: What is the shelf life of the product?
Answer: It is recommended that the LazyMan™ products be used within two years after purchase.

Using LazyMan Liquid Gold™ is such an easy and effective way to improve soil each year.  You’ll love the results of this amazing product!

 
Question for the week: What soil challenge do you have?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Grow Ipomoea Seeds for Incredible Beauty!

Published on February 10, 2013 in Garden Flowers, Uncategorized and Vines and Climbers. 0 Comments Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , .

Last week’s blog introduced the colorful climbing annual, Morning Glory. There are so many wonderful uses for the fast-growing, easy-to-grow vine. One of my favorites is to create shade for sunny windows in the summer. For several years, I grew Morning Glory vines up a temporary trellis outside a west-facing bedroom. I simply anchored chicken wire in the ground and then attached it to the eves, and the Morning Glory covered it by mid-summer. What a wonderful shady atmosphere it created, and I loved the leafy shadows that filled the room in the evenings.

The Ipomoea genus is vast, and there are so many species to choose from! You might not even have known that some of these are in the Morning Glory family.

  • Ipomoea nil – known as Japanese Morning Glory
  • Ipomoea purpurea – common Morning Glory
  • Ipomoea coccinea – commonly called Scarlet Star Glory
  • Ipomoea quamoclit (synonym: Ipomoea pennata) – known as Cypress Vine
  • Ipomoea batatas – referred to as Sweet Potato Vine
  • Ipomoea lobata (synonym: Mina lobata) – Common names include Firecracker Vine, Fire Vine, Spanish Flag Vine, and Exotic Love Vine
  • Convolvulus tricolor – known as Dwarf Morning Glory
  • Ipomoea alba – Commonly known as Moonflower
Photo of Dwarf Morning Glory

Dwarf Morning Glory in a mixed container of annuals

Not all Morning Glories are climbers. There is a Dwarf Morning Glory that has a mounding growth habit and reaches 8 to 10 inches in height. It can be used in the front of the annual summer border, in window boxes, and in mixed containers. Dwarf Morning Glory plants, Convolvulus tricolor Ensign series feature solitary, open blooms with 3 colors. The funnel-shaped flowers are 1 to 2 inches across and come in colors of rose, blue, red, and white all with yellow throats and white markings.  Dwarf Morning Glories like full sun and moist but well-drained soil, and they do not need a trellis or support to grow on.

Another noteworthy member of the genus Ipomoeais the evening blooming vine, Moonflower. Unlike the Morning Glory which opens early in the morning, Moonflowers open in the evening and stay open all night. Maybe it should be called “Evening Glory!” This annual vine is very vigorous with large leaves and pure white, saucer-like blooms that can be up to 6 inches across. The large flowers are highly scented, and nocturnal moths are attracted to the white, scented blooms and are the pollinators for these flowers. Because of their lovely fragrance, it is recommended to place this vine next to a window, porch or doorway where the scent can be enjoyed in summer breezes. Grow these vines in full sun and in soil that is kept moist. The Moonflowers need a long growing season to bloom, so it is recommended to start the seed indoors and transplant outside after frost danger has passed.

Photo of Moonflower Vine

Plant Moonflowers for an evening display

If you are looking for a festive, eye-catching climber, look no farther than Mina lobata, commonly called Firecracker Vine.  This vine is actually a perennial in USDA Zones 9 – 11, but it grows well as an annual in colder climates. Also known as Fire Vine, it has tubular flowers that start out red but fade to orange and then to cream. The flower spikes have all three colors present at the same time for a dramatic color show. Hummingbirds are attracted to this climber.

All of the flower seeds in this genus have that hard outer coat that needs scarification. Soaking the Morning Glory seeds in warm water over night is one option. A second option is to lightly file the seed coat or put a little nick in it. This scarification allows for faster and improved germination.

Once outdoor soil temperatures are 55° or more and danger of frost has passed, these flower seeds can be directly sown outside. Prepare the soil by weeding the area, loosening the top several inches, and adding some organic matter. Follow the instructions on the seed package for the depth of planting and the spacing. Keep the flower seeds moist until they germinate, and have string or a trellis for them to climb. The seedlings will begin to twine in no time!

There is nothing like growing a climbing vine and letting it ramble throughout the landscape. They provide a welcome burst of color and visual interest as they travel up fences, mailbox posts, porches and even evergreen trees and shrubs. Be creative and have some fun by growing a climbing vine!

Question for the week: What’s your favorite Morning Glory to grow?

By Kimberly Bell

+Kimberly Bell

Reflecting Back on 2012

Published on December 31, 2012 in Uncategorized. 0 Comments Tags: , , .

I can hardly believe that 2012 has nearly come to an end! In my first blog post this year, I introduced myself and the beginning of the master gardener program that I was starting through Oregon State University. Now, here it is 12 months later, and the program has been completed, and I have my diploma and badge to show for it!

Photo of Kimberly BellI’d like to share just a few of the highlights from the year and offer a brief snap-shot of what the program entails. First, I have to start out with the people. I think that gardeners have to be some of most generous, kind-hearted, friendly people on the face of the planet! From my first class all the way through graduation I was warmly received into a great big family. Everyone had different backgrounds, beliefs, and abilities, but we all shared the common love of soil, growing, and giving back to the earth. Gardeners are great cooks too! There wasn’t a time together that we didn’t have delicious home-made recipes to enjoy.

Once class time was completed, there was a large selection of volunteer opportunities to choose from: the help desk where gardening assistance is given over the phone, through emails, and face-to-face with the public; the local food share program; the demonstration gardens; the Saturday market and state fair booths; fund raising projects; community gardens; leading workshops and teaching gardening classes in the elementary grades; and the list continued.

After fulfilling my time at the help desk, I chose to work in the demonstration gardens, and each Monday I spent time in the beneficial insect and herb plots. I had great mentors who selflessly shared their vast wealth of knowledge and experience with me. There was much to learn and absorb, and in 2013, I plan on being right out there continuing my education in the garden. I also spent about three weeks teaching a basic gardening class to kindergarten through 3rd graders. It was fun and sometimes chaotic helping little children plant seeds or transplant ornamentals, but what a great opportunity to introduce the importance of gardening to children. The curriculum we used in the class had been prepared by veteran master gardeners, and one of the lessons that we taught the older children was called apple earth. It was new to me, but it made a significant impression on my thinking. It’s a great visualization for teaching about our earth and the importance of taking care of what we have. Here’s a summary of the lesson:

1)      Imagine the earth as an apple

2)      Cut the apple into 4 equal pieces

3)      Three of the 4 pieces represent all the bodies of water on the earth

4)      The last quarter piece represents the land of the earth

5)      Cut this quarter in to 2 pieces

6)      One of the 2 pieces represents land that cannot be used for agriculture or growing – like desserts, mountains, arctic

7)      The piece that remains is 1/8 of the apple (earth) and this is what is available for people to live on and grow food on

8)      Slice that remaining last piece into 4 slivers

9)      Three of the apple slivers represent the land that is too poor for agriculture or filled with cities and roads

10)   The remaining sliver of apple is 1/32

11)   Trim the peel off of the sliver and lay it out on the table

12)   That tiny peel represents all the topsoil that we have to grow food on

Here’s a great online illustration: http://www.farmland.org/images/flash/apple.swf

That simple illustration really makes a point. That tiny strip of apple peel is what we all have to work with and take care of to make sure that it continues to provide for the present and future generations. That’s what I love about the master gardening program – the program is comprised of people who give of their time, talents, and knowledge to invest in that little peel of topsoil. Do master gardeners have all the answers? No, definitely not, but they are dedicated to finding the best answers and to helping other people along the way.

My 2012 was definitely made better because of the group of master gardeners in Marion County, Oregon. I will definitely make time in 2013 for the program and the wonderful people who have become like family. I also continue to truly appreciate my employer, Outsidepride.com because they too are dedicated to that tiny peel of land and in helping others do their small part in keeping it healthy and productive.

By Kimberly Bell

A Journey to Becoming a Master Gardener

Published on January 23, 2012 in Uncategorized. 1 Comment Tags: , , .

Hello! Let me introduce myself to you, I’m Kimberly Bell, and I, like millions of other people across the nation, find a pure, simple joy in gardening, and each spring that enthusiasm is renewed! What started as a simple hobby 20 years ago has turned into an insatiable passion. I have such an appreciation for plants – of all kinds – as well as a tremendous appreciation for other like-minded people who have the same irresistible urge to create natural beauty.

So, what am I doing here at Outsidepride? I am the new Social Media Director, and you will be hearing from me regularly. What an amazing position this is and what an honor it is to be the one filling it! Combining my love for growing with my love for socializing is a perfect match!

As the newer employee looking in with a fresh perspective, I am excited to see the value that Outsidepride places on the customers. Our customers represent an entire array of gardening enthusiasts. For some it may be a leisure activity and for others it may be their livelihood. Whether the novice or the professional, Outsidepride is here with quality seed and products as well as objective information and resources that will help our customers fulfill their gardening, lawn and landscaping dreams.

Our customers’ success is important to us! We have been diligent in our collection of accurate information, and since our beginning we have been avid supporters of university extension services that are offered in each state. The universities have the latest, objective, research-based information for their local areas. Working in many counties throughout the United States are Master Gardeners who have received intense training in home horticulture from the universities, and in exchange for the training, the Master Gardeners payback the extension agents with many hours of volunteerism.

So how does someone become a Master Gardener? Here in Oregon, most of our counties offer a new program each January. In Marion County where I reside, there are 74 hours of class time and 66 hours of practical experience as a volunteer. The volunteer hours are broken down: 40 hours at the Help Desk answering questions and giving advice by telephone, in person and by email; 12 hours of working in the Marion Garden with a trainer; and 14 hours of miscellaneous activities. Each Master Gardener Trainee is also matched with a mentor who offers advice and assistance until the program is completed. It’s a very organized, structured and well-supported program.

Here are some Oregon statistics from 2010 that show just how beneficial this Master Gardener Program truly is: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/mg/master-gardener-program-quick-stats

You may have guessed it by now, but I enrolled in the program! Becoming a Master Gardener has always intrigued me, and when the opportunity presented itself, I jumped at it! What an awesome opportunity to learn and to network with many new people as well as share the valuable information as I blog along the way. I would be thrilled and honored to take followers along this journey with me, and we will all have a graduation celebration in December 2012!

Next week, I’ll introduce you to my class and we’ll discuss Chapter 1, Botany Basics, in my textbook Sustainable Gardening. Until then, here’s my question for the week: Have you ever used the services of the Master Gardener Program in your area? Tell me about it!

By Kimberly Bell