Let’s fast forward a few months from where our last week’s blog post left off — in the shady areas of the landscape, the Begonias have performed non-stop, giving a display of beautiful colors. Now, fall is approaching and Begonias naturally will go into a dormant period. During this dormant time, the tuberous roots must be lifted in order to survive the winter months.
Here are a few suggestions on how to successfully winter Begonia tubers:
- To prepare the tubers for dormancy, gradually reduce watering and stop fertilizing at the end of August
- Remove any flower buds that form during September in order to encourage dormancy and store energy in the tuber
- Dig tubers after the foliage starts to turn yellow or after the first killing frost
- Cut stems to about 5 inches and allow the tubers to dry indoors at normal room temperature, out of direct sunlight, until the remaining stems are dry and loose
- Once dry, pull off any stems or roots and soil, but do not wash the tubers
- Store the tubers in a plastic bag that has been perforated and filled with peat moss in a cool, dark environment
- A temp of 40° – 50°F is ideal
- An insulated attic, garage, or spare refrigerator work well
- Periodically check the tubers for rot, softening or withering and discard bad tubers immediately
February is time to start the tubers that were stored. The Begonia tubers started in February should be ready to bloom in June. Here are the recommendations for starting tubers:
- Plant the Begonia tubers in a flat of peat moss. If the tubers have no sign of disease, the peat moss they were stored in can be used. If there is some disease, start with fresh peat moss
- Plant the tubers right-side-up in the flat and barely cover with peat moss. The upper side of the tuber is the side with a depression or hollow spot
- The tubers are susceptible to rot, so keep the peat moss moist but not saturated. Do not let water accumulate in the hollow of the tuber
- Place the flat in a temperature of 70°F and where the flat will be in indirect sunlight
- Roots will develop from the bottom, sides and top of the tuber, and stems will form on the top as well
- Within about 30 days, the stems will be about 1 inch in height
- Repot the tubers into 6 inch pots or even the permanent pot that the Begonia will bloom in
- Supplemental lighting or moving them to a bright window will help promote short, sturdy stems instead of tall, straggly ones
- Small tubers = small plants and large tubers = large plants. The flower size does not have to do with the size of the tuber but by the number of stems growing out of the tuber. If the desire is to have large flowers, thin the stems when they are 3 inches in height. Small tubers should have 2 – 3 stems and large tubers should have 4 – 6 stems. Extra stems can be pinched off. If quantity of blooms is more desired than large blooms, do not thin the stems. This will form a bushy plant with lots of blooms and in addition to not thinning, pinch the tips of the stems in May
- About 2 weeks before the end of frost season, begin to harden the Begonia plants off by moving the plants outdoors on warm days to a shaded and protected area. Bring them back in at night, and continue doing this and gradually move the plants in brighter light and expose them to more wind
- Once frost danger has passed and the soil temperature has warmed, transplant the Begonia plants into baskets, containers or into the flower beds
How rewarding to start your own Begonia seeds and then to continue lifting, storing, and starting the tubers over. Gardening is such an art and what a pleasure to see your nurturing skills reap the reward of beautiful blooms and a color display that goes all summer long!
Question for the week: Do you store Begonia tubers from season to season?
By Kimberly Bell
