
Perennials - General Care and Instructions
Perennials include
all those flowering plants that bloom year after year (with care) such as
chrysanthemums, marguerites, or daylilies. Some perennials grow, bloom, and
then die back to ground level each year, while others are evergreen and produce
new foliage even when they are not blooming. Whatever their growth habits,
perennials require some grooming during the year to keep them healthy and
looking good. Some may need dividing or transplanting when they begin to look
crowded.
Shearing
Shear or cut dead flowers from flowering perennials, when the bloom season
is nearly over. Use hedge shears or grass clippers to cut off faded
blooms and not more than one inch of the foliage. Leave as much leaf surface as
possible since plants may not sprout new growth from bare twigs.
Cutting Back
Cut back or remove woody or dying parts of plants
(like geraniums or chrysanthemums). On some plants the flower stalks can be cut
back to a main stem or to ground level right after blooming. Plants that
produce new shoots from underground like asparagus fern can be cut back to
ground level. For geraniums, cut woody talks back to a bud or sideshoot.
Tip Cutting
Tip cut to produce new sturdy young plants from old plants (like sedum).
Many perennials quickly form new roots if you break off healthy shoots and
plant the broken end. Before planting, dip the end of this stem into rootone to
give the plant a good start. Some perennials that root easily are
chrysanthemums, geranium and sedum.
Dividing
Break up or divide to renew crowded masses of daylilies, or Shasta daisies.
Some perennials form a dense clump with old growth at the center and young shoots
around the edge. You can pry some clumps apart with spading forks, cut them
with a knife or hatchet, or better yet, dig them up and break off the young
outside pieces for replanting, then discard the old center piece. Plants that
can be pried into sections are hostas and daylilies. Plants with dense roots
will need to be cut apart.
Chemical Fertilizer
Many different fertilizers are available in dry, liquid, and tablet form. Those
containing all the needed food elements are called complete fertilizers. Others
contain a high percentage of only one element such as
nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium. Before purchasing a fertilizer, check to see
how much of these main elements it contains. Somewhere on the package you will
find three numbers such as
Sometimes you may find your plants do not always require all three elements.
Some plants require more nitrogen than others while the same may hold true of
phosphorus.
Organic Fertilizer
Organic fertilizers are made of various materials such as cottonseed meal,
blood meal or bone meal. Most organic fertilizers are rather slow in giving up
their nutrients since bacterial action is required before nutrients can be
released.
Some people think that manure and compost are fertilizers. Both may contain
tiny amounts of usable nutrients (manure is typically
Using Fertilizers
Labels on packaged fertilizer give instructions for their use. Look for the
amounts suggested for an area of square feet or for the amount to be mixed in a
gallon of water. Fertilizer comes in dry or liquid form. To help the dry
fertilizer be as effective as possible, you may want to dig it into the soil
around the root zone. Whether you use the liquid or dry form, the fertilizer
must be watered into the soil thoroughly or it will do no good.
Diseases and Insects
You can control diseases and insects in your
garden by preventing problems before they take hold. Both organic and chemical
solutions are available. Above all please read and follow the advice on all
fungicide and pesticide labels. Mildew, rust, and crown rot can be helped by
using multipurpose fungicides such as Daconil 2787®, Sulfur Plant Fungicides
and Liquid Copper products. Aphids, spider mites, leaf miners, white fly and
slugs respond to such products as Insecticidal Soaps, Hot Pepper Wax®, Systemic
Granules or Rotenone.