New Zealand Spinach Seeds - Everlasting Spinach Vegetable Seed

New Zealand Spinach Vegetable Seeds

200 Seeds
.......................................................................................................................................................
4.99
400 Seeds
.......................................................................................................................................................
8.99

SEASON

Annual

USDA ZONES

3 - 9

HEIGHT

24 - 36 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Late spring to early fall

BLOOM COLOR

Yellow

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun to partial shade

SOIL TYPE

Well-drained, sandy soils, rich in organic matter, pH 6.8 - 7.0

DEER RESISTANT

No

LATIN NAME

Tetragonia tetragonioides

SEASON

Annual

USDA ZONES

4 - 8

HEIGHT

72 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Mid summer

FOLIAGE COLOR

Red

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Well drained, sandy to loamy, soil pH 5.0 - 8.2

LATIN NAME

Atriplex hortensis

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

8 - 11

HEIGHT

120 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Mid summer

BLOOM COLOR

Purple & White

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun to partial shade

SOIL TYPE

Prefers moist, fertile soils, high in organic matter, pH 6.5 to 6.8

DEER RESISTANT

No

LATIN NAME

Basella rubra

SEASON

Annual

USDA ZONES

3 - 11

HEIGHT

100 - 140 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Late spring to late summer

BLOOM COLOR

Mix

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Well drained, pH 6.6 - 7.5

DEER RESISTANT

No

HOUSE PLANT

No

SEASON

Annual

USDA ZONES

6 - 10

HEIGHT

20 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Summer

BLOOM COLOR

Red

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Well drained garden soil, doesn't need to be rich

DEER RESISTANT

No

HOUSE PLANT

No

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

7 - 10

HEIGHT

40 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Late summer to early fall

BLOOM COLOR

Violet

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun

SOIL TYPE

Moist, well-drained sandy to clay soils

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

SEASON

Annual

USDA ZONES

5 - 10

HEIGHT

12 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Early spring to early fall

BLOOM COLOR

White

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun to partial shade

SOIL TYPE

Fairly rich, light, loamy soil

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

SEASON

Perennial

USDA ZONES

3 - 8

HEIGHT

72 - 78 inches

BLOOM SEASON

Mid summer

BLOOM COLOR

Yellow-green

ENVIRONMENT

Full sun to partial shade

SOIL TYPE

Grows well in any deep, well drained soil, pH 6.1 - 7.8

DEER RESISTANT

Yes

About...

New Zealand Spinach (Tetragonia Tetragonioides) - Start New Zealand Spinach seeds and grow a tasty, nutritious plant for your herb garden! New Zealand Spinach is a warm season perennial that grows as an annual in colder climates. The New Zealand Spinach plant is not frost tolerant like true spinach and is not related to it although it is eaten and prepared the same. The taste is considered to be milder in flavor than true spinach.

MORE VEGETABLE OPTIONS

New zealand spinach Orach vegetable & microgreens seeds Malabar spinach Scarlet runner beans Asparagus pea Artichoke Corn salad Lovage ...More
ABOUT
FAQ’s
VIDEOS

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

75F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

10 - 15 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

No

DEPTH

1/4 - 1/2 inch

SOWING RATE

1 - 2 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

24 - 36 inches

New Zealand Spinach (Tetragonia Tetragonioides) - Start New Zealand Spinach seeds and grow a tasty, nutritious plant for your herb garden! New Zealand Spinach is a warm season perennial that grows as an annual in colder climates. The New Zealand Spinach plant is not frost tolerant like true spinach and is not related to it although it is eaten and prepared the same. The taste is considered to be milder in flavor than true spinach. The leaves are arrow-shaped, thick, succulent and can be picked over a long period of time. The plant grows differently from true spinach as well. Instead of forming a clump, it has weak stems that sprawl and spread up to several feet. It also produces small yellow flowers and seed capsules. Other common names for the herb plant are Everlasting Spinach, Warrigal Greens, Everbearing Spinach or simply Tetragonia.

How To Grow New Zealand Spinach From Herb Seed: Start the herb seeds directly outdoors after frost danger has passed. It generally takes 50 - 60 days until it is ready to be harvested. Some gardeners recommend that the New Zealand Spinach seeds are soaked overnight in water to aid in germination. Do not let the soil dry out while the spinach plants are establishing. New Zealand Spinach plants are fairly drought tolerant once they are established but the leaves will not be as tender or flavorful without water. Regular trimming encourages lush growth. In fact, many gardeners consider Tetragonia Spinach to be an ornamental herb as its foliage is so attractive, and it has been used as a ground cover. The New Zealand Spinach herb tolerates a wide range of conditions, but it prefers well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. It prefers full sun, but when it is grown in the hotter climates, it benefits from some afternoon shade.

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

ABOUT
FAQ's
VIDEOS

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

60 - 70F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

14 - 21 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

Surface sow and thinly cover

SOWING RATE

2 - 3 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

15 inches

Orach (Atriplex Hortensis Red Plume) - Grow Orach seeds and grow some beautiful herb plants for an edible landscape. Atriplex hortensis, commonly referred to as Garden Orache, Red Orach, Mountain Spinach, or French Spinach, is a hardy, annual herb plant that grows upright up to 72 inches tall depending on where it is grown. The leaves are variously shaped, but somewhat oblong, comparatively thin in texture, and slightly acid to the taste. The flowers are small and obscure, greenish or reddish, corresponding in a degree with the color of the foliage of the herb plant. The Orach herb is a cool season plant, but it does not bolt as quickly as regular spinach. The leaves can be harvested longer into the summer without any bitter taste, and they are used as salad greens or cooked. This Red Plume variety is also highly ornamental and prized for its red coloring.

How To Grow Red Orach: Red Orach is an annual herb suitable for full sun. Sow the Orach seeds in the spring as early as the soil can be worked. Thinly cover the herb seeds and keep them moist. Sow the seeds 2 inches apart and in rows 12 to 18 inches apart. Thin the young plants when they are 6 inches in height, leaving 12 to 18 inches for spacing. The thinned plants can be eaten. Harvest the young leaves like spinach.

Common Questions

Q

How much water does orach need to produce good leaves?

A

Although orach is relatively drought-resistant, a lack of water often leads to bolting. This early seed production can render the leaf harvest unusable. To maintain optimal growth in dry conditions, it's advisable to water generously, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist while preventing the roots from sitting in water. Applying a layer of moisture-retaining mulch can also be beneficial during dry spells.

Q

Do I need to fertilize my orach plants?

A

Fast-growing orach thrives in rich, fertile soils, so it's beneficial to enhance the soil with organic materials like leaf mold compost or manure. During the growing season, consider providing an extra nutrient boost by applying an NPK fertilizer that is high in nitrogen. This will prioritize the development of lush foliage.

Q

Do I need to prune my orach plants?

A

Orach can reach a height of 6 feet. However, by regularly clipping it, you can maintain a shorter plant that produces tender leaves with less bitterness. Additionally, proper pruning and sufficient watering can minimize the risk of bolting during hot and dry conditions.

ABOUT
FAQ's
VIDEOS

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

65 - 75F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

14 - 21 days, scarify seed to hasten germination

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

Plant seeds 1/4 inch deep

SOWING RATE

1 -2 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

9 - 12 inches

Malabar Spinach (Basella Rubra) - If you are looking for a different flavor from traditional spinach, then this gorgeous combination of deep green leaves set against burgundy stems and violet blooms will be perfect in your herb garden. Edible leaves grown from Malabar Spinach seeds can be used throughout summer and will flourish in heat and humidity. Young leaves of this herb plant can be cooked and added to recipes and fresh leaves make a great salad. It is also commonly referred to as Climbing Spinach Vine, Red Vine Spinach or Creeping Spinach.

Vining herb

Climbing to 10 feet or more, Malabar Spinach is a lovely vine for trellises and arbors. This herb is one of the very few garden herbs that is a vining plant.

spinach climbing herb seed

Herb seed | malabar spinach

Plant specifications

Red-stemmed and pretty in flower, red Malabar spinach is a fast-growing vine that has both ornamental and culinary qualities. Red Vine Spinach requires a trellis or other support for the twining vine.

A native of India, Malabar Spinach is a fully evergreen tender perennial herb with densely twining, rambling stems that can become thick and often require management to keep them from overtaking supports. Grow these herb seeds as a perennial in frost free zones and as an annual herb in colder zones.

  • Sowing Rate: 1 - 2 seeds per plant
  • Average Germ Time: 14 - 21 days
  • Keep moist until germination
  • Attracts bees and butterflies
  • Depth: 1/4 inch
malabar spinach plant

How to grow

How To Grow Malabar Climbing Spinach: Once frost danger has passed, plant the Malabar Spinach seeds directly in the herb garden. Some gardeners recommend scarifying the herb seeds to improve germination. Cover the Basella Rubra seeds with 1/4 inch of soil and keep the soil adequately moist.

  • Height: 120 inches
  • USDA Zones: 8 - 11
  • Season: Perennial
  • Deer Resistant: No

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

ABOUT
FAQ's
VIDEOS

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

70F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

7 - 14 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

No

DEPTH

1 inch deep

SOWING RATE

1 seed per plant

MOISTURE

Keep the soil moderately moist during germination

PLANT SPACING

6 inches

CARE & MAINTENANCE

Scarlet Runner Beans

Scarlet Runner Bean Mix (Phaseolus Coccineus Mix) - Every gardener should try growing Scarlet Runner Beans seeds. This unique plant is a decorative runner beans mix with colorful beans, three flower colors and edible young pods. Here are some very interesting facts about Phaseolus Coccineus Scarlet Runner:

  • They are nutritious, good and healthy to eat
  • Have a more distinctive flavor than French beans
  • You can eat the fresh pods after cooking, or harvest seeds from older pods to cook as haricot beans
  • They are often prolific croppers - with a freezer you can grow enough to last many months
  • They easily grow in odd spaces amongst flowers, etc...
  • Scarlet Runner Beans also have attractive flowers
  • Flat runner beans are not stocked fresh in small fruit and vegetable shops, or in tins or frozen packs
  • Like other plants of the pea family this crop leaves your soil enriched in nitrogen

Scarlet Runner Beans have brilliant red flowers that last throughout the summer. This wonderful mix has brown, purple, and red flamed beans as well as white. Flowers are scarlet, white, and bi-color red and white. The blossoms are less than an inch across and grow in clusters. The edible beans grow up to a foot long and are especially good when picked young. Pick them often to promote continued flowering. The Scarlet Runner Bean vine will quickly and brilliantly cover fences, trellises and other garden structures and will climb 10 - 12 feet.

Sow Scarlet Runner Beans seeds outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. Plant Phaseolus Coccineus seed 1 inch deep and 3 inches apart. Germination takes 7 - 14 days. Keep the soil moderately moist during germination. Thin 4 - 6 inches apart when plants are 2 - 3 inches tall.

Runner beans are a favorite with hummingbirds and butterflies. Plant some on a back fence or a trellis and enjoy the flowers and the hummingbirds year after year! Plants need full sun and plenty of water. Growing Scarlet Runner Beans is fun and rewarding!

Common Questions

Q

What are some good companion plants for scarlet runner beans?

A

Plants such as basil, borage, catnip, dill, monarda, oregano, rosemary, summer savory and nasturtiums are great companion plants for scarlet runner beans.

Q

Are there plants I should not plant with scarlet runner beans?

A

Yes, do not plants near garlic, onions, chives, leeks, scallions, shallots, peppers, wormwood, fennel, broccoli, cabbage, kohlrabi, beets, sunflowers, tomato’s or gladioli.

Q

Do I need to fertilize my plants?

A

No, beans are considered soil builders and rarely need any fertilizers during the growing season.

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FAQ's
VIDEOS

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

65 - 70F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

10 - 21 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

Yes

DEPTH

1/4 inch

SOWING RATE

1 - 2 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

4 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart

Asparagus Pea (Tetragonolobus Purpureus) - Asparagus Pea seeds can grow one of the prettiest vegetables on the face of the earth! What does asparagus have to do with this plant? There may be two possibilities for the common name: 1) The young pods taste similar to asparagus, or 2) The vegetable is prepared in the same manner as asparagus, by steaming and covering with butter. Another common name for Tetragonolobus purpurea is the Winged Pea because the pods that form have the appearance of having wings.

Asparagus Pea is an annual herb that is native to the Mediterranean region of southern Europe. It is a common spring-blooming wildflower in field and scrub. Winged Asparagus Pea is a legume that grows approximately 20 inches tall and 24 inches wide, the plant has small leaves that are made of 3 leaflets. It has deep crimson flowers which are formed in pairs, and they can be used as an edible garnish in salads and other dishes. After pollination occurs, winged pods develop and can grow up to 3 1/2 inches long. The pods may be prepared in a number of ways: boiled, sauteed, steamed, dipped in tempura batter and deep-fried, or pickled. Grow herb seeds for this attractive, versatile plant!

How To Grow Asparagus Peas: Start Asparagus Pea seeds directly outside in a prepared seedbed. Cover the flower seeds with 1/4 inch of soil and keep them moist until germination occurs.

Common Questions

Q

Will asparagus pea attract any pollinators?

A

Yes, butterflies and bubble bees enjoy this flower nectar.

Q

Can I grow in containers on my patio or balcony?

A

Yes, make sure you choose the appropriate size container and sow seeds between Mid-April and June. It is good to presoak your seeds before planting to speed up germination.

Q

Can you eat asparagus peas raw?

A

Yes, you can eat them raw, they do not contain toxins such as raw beans do, even raw. For example, you can use them to spice up a salad.

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FAQ's
VIDEOS

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

50F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

14 - 30 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

No

DEPTH

1/2 - 3/4 inch deep

SOWING RATE

2 to 3 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

24 - 36 inches

Artichoke Violet (Cynara Scolymus) - Bring an exotic look to your drought tolerant herb garden by growing Artichoke seeds! They have been grown for centuries, dating back to the Greeks and Romans. They are native to the Mediterranean area and grow in the wild. Here in the United States, Artichoke violet globe is widely cultivated and is considered to be a somewhat tender perennial. The edible portion of the plant is the large flower bud, and each plant produces several of the buds which are 2 - 5 inches across. The heart of the bud is very tender, and there are many wonderful methods of preparation that bring out the flavors of this gourmet herb. This Artichoke herb variety produces buds that are violet in color and are known for being very flavorful. Start your herb seeds today!

How To Grow Artichokes From Seed: Start the Artichoke seeds indoors in late winter. Many gardeners recommend a chilling period for the young Artichoke herb plants with temperatures below 50F in order to produce the buds. Plant outdoors after danger of frost has passed in rich organic soil. In hot weather, give the plants deep soakings of water, watering them from the base. To winter the Artichoke plants, cut them down to 8 - 10 inches and mulch them heavily. What grows next year will be offshoots of the parent plant.

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group. What type of nutrients do herbs need? Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

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FAQ’s
VIDEOS

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

55 - 65F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

7 - 14 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

No

DEPTH

1/4 - 1/2 inch

SOWING RATE

35 to 50 seeds per foot in rows 12 inches apart

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

3 - 6 inches in rows 12 inches apart

Corn Salad (Valerianella Locusta) - Corn Salad seeds were often found growing in the wild and found in the grain fields of Europe. Once considered to be rather weedy, it now has improved cultivars and is grown throughout Europe and North America for an early spring nutritious herb.

Frost tolerant

Corn Salad herb plants are easy to grow and require little care. It is a cool season annual, and it bolts once temperatures are above 80F. Corn Salad plants can tolerate frost and they can winter over especially if given some mulch for protection.

corn salad plant

Herb seed | corn salad

How to grow

How To Grow Corn Salad From Seed: For warmer climates, it is recommended to start the Corn Salad seeds directly outdoors in early fall. The plants will put on some growth throughout the fall, but when the spring comes it will be bountiful and will be an early source for fresh greens.

For cold climates, start the Mache herb seeds outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in late winter or early spring. Plant the herb seeds in soil that is rich in organic matter.

  • Sowing Rate: 35 to 50 seeds per foot in rows 12 inches apart
  • Average Germ Time: 7 - 14 days
  • Keep moist until germination
  • Depth: 1/4 - 1/2 inch
mache corn herb

Plant Specifications

Corn Salad, also called Mache, grows from a basal rosette of rounded, spoon-shaped leaves. The succulent leaves that can be 6 inches long have a nutty, sweet flavor that is excellent in tossed green salads. The Mache herb is a nutritious addition to grow in the herb garden with leaves that provide vitamins and minerals, especially iron.

  • Height: 12 inches
  • USDA Zones: 5 - 10
  • Season: Annual
  • Deer Resistant: No

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

ABOUT
FAQ’s
VIDEOS

Planting Directions

TEMPERATURE

68F

AVERAGE GERM TIME

7 - 14 days

LIGHT REQUIRED

No

DEPTH

1/4 inch

SOWING RATE

4 - 5 seeds per plant

MOISTURE

Keep seeds moist until germination

PLANT SPACING

24 - 36 inches

Lovage (Levisticum Officinalis) - The kitchen herb garden would not be complete without drought tolerant Lovage, the hardy long-lived perennial. Lovage seeds grow quickly and the herb plant can reach over 72 inches in height. It prefers full sun to partial shade, and it develops a long taproot, so cultivate the bed deeply before adding the Lovage plant. This herb is also commonly referred to as Garden Lovage. The long taproot makes it perfect for water conservation and the xeriscape herb garden.

Culinary herb

Lovage has a similar taste to celery. It is a wonderful addition to soups, stews, and vegetable dishes. Use it as you would celery or parsley, but it does have a stronger flavor, so less is usually needed.

plant lovage seeds

Herb seed | lovage

How to grow

How To Grow Lovage From Seed: If your growing season is long, start the Lovage seeds directly outdoors after the danger of frost has passed. For cooler climates with shorter growing season, start the herb seeds indoors 6 weeks before the end of frost season. Harden the seedlings off and transplant them to the herb garden after frosts have passed.

To help the Garden Lovage plants establish well, keep them well watered the first season, and use a balanced fertilizer a couple of times. The plants will only reach 24 inches the first year, but the leaves can be used when it reaches 12 inches in height. After establishment, lovage is very drought tolerant.

  • Sowing Rate: 4 - 5 seeds per plant
  • Average Germ Time: 7 - 14 days
  • Keep moist until germination
  • Attracts bees
  • Depth: 1/4 inch
lovage herb

Harvesting Lovage

Lovage herb plants can be harvested for both the leaves and the seeds. The leaves should be picked before the herb plant has flowered, chop the leaves finely and freeze them. For the seeds, allow the seed stalk to ripen and turn brown. Cut the stalks and finish drying the seeds in a warm, well-ventilated place. Cut the seed stalks to prevent the Lovage plant from re-seeding.

  • Height: 72 - 78 inches
  • USDA Zones: 3 - 8
  • Season: Perennial
  • Deer Resistant: Yes 

Common Questions

Q

Which herbs can thrive in the kitchen?

A

Not all herbs are suitable for indoor growth. Herbs with woody, bushy growth, like rosemary are too large for indoor herb gardens. Consider other more suitable herbs for an indoor kitchen garden, such as chives, oregano, thyme, dill, mint, basil, cilantro, sage and savory. Each herb has specific growing needs, so ensure to provide the right amount of light, humidity, and air circulation. If using a single large container, ensure that all plants require similar amounts of sunlight and water. For instance, chives and cilantro may not need as much sunlight as dill and oregano.

Q

What are good companion plants for herb gardens?

A

Pairing herbs based on watering requirements, like planting lavender with thyme or basil with chives, is ideal for maintaining the health of both plants. Avoid companion planting with catnip, lemon balm and mint as they should be grown in separate pots due to their rapid spreading nature that can overtake other plants in your indoor herb garden.

Q

When do I establish an indoor herb garden?

A

Create a kitchen herb garden by propagating cuttings from your outdoor plants as the weather cools in the fall. If you opt to sow your indoor herb garden from purchased seeds, begin a few weeks before the anticipated first frost of the season. Most herbs can be harvested within a few weeks, so there is no need to plant too far in advance.

Q

Do kitchen herbs need full sun?

A

Most herbs need 6 hours of sunlight a day to thrive. If you do not have this type of light available in your kitchen, consider a grow light that will run 14-16 hours per day 6 to 12 inches above your plants. NOTE: Rotate herbs periodically when grown in windows to let each part of the plant receive sunlight.

Q

What time of year should you plant herbs?

A

Herbs grown in indoor gardens can be planted any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to grow their herbs outdoors during the summer growing season, and then move them to their indoor garden before the first frost of fall. If you prefer to start your seeds outdoors, you will need to wait until after danger of frost in the spring or start your seeds indoors 6 -8 weeks before last frost and transplant in your garden after danger of frost.

Q

Do herbs come back every year?

A

Perennial herbs will come back each year when planted in the correct zone or grown indoors during the cold winter months. Popular perennial herbs are oregano, parsley, sage, fennel, chives, lavender, thyme and mint varieties.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need watered?

A

Allow the soil to dry out just slightly before watering your herbs again. Give your indoor herb garden a dose of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 2 weeks or so. Too much food will compromise the taste of the herbs. It is also beneficial to provide adequate humidity. If the indoor air is especially dry – which is often the case in regions with cold winters. Set the herbs pots on trays of stones. Fill the trays with water but keep the level below the drainage holes of your pots.

Q

When do I water my outdoor herb garden?

A

Different herb plants will need different amounts of water so keep this in mind when planting your garden and keep similar plants together to simplify watering. Watering is best done in the early morning hours when temperatures are cooler. Many herbs are hardy. They can tolerate soil that is moderately dry. You want to keep an eye out for wilting when the soil is wet. Ideally, your herbs should make quick use of the water you give them. Saturated soil is not what you are after. Pay close attention to the coloration of the leaves on your herbs. Yellow leaves can be a sign of too much water, and so can black leaves. If you spot any mildew or fuzz on the herbs, too much moisture can be the problem.

Q

How do I harvest my herbs?

A

Trim back flowering sections before they bloom for healthier leaves. Prune new growth on young plants weekly to encourage a fuller mature plant. Snip herbs for harvest when they are just a few inches tall. Pruning back the herbs often means a larger, longer harvest. Cut the new growth back at least one per week, even if you are not using the herbs in recipes (see drying and freezing page if you do not want to waste your harvest). Long stems that are about to set flower buds should be trimmed off as they appear.

Q

What do I need to start an indoor herb garden?

A

Common tools needed for an indoor herb garden are: garden trowel, scissors for snipping, stones (optional). Materials for your herbs plants include seed, pots, potting soil, cactus potting soil (optional), pots or trays, fertilizer and a grow light if you do not have adequate sunlight of at least 6 hours per day for your plants.

Q

How do I prepare my containers for planting?

A

Choose large, deep containers with drainage holes to accommodate fast-growing herbs. Fill the container with potting mix leaving about ½ inch clear at the top. Use standard commercial potting soil for most herbs but blend in cactus potting mix for herbs native to the Mediterranean, such as thyme and oregano which prefer dryer soils.

Q

Can I put my indoor herb containers outside?

A

Yes! Move your potted herbs to the patio or deck when the weather warms in the spring and for a boost of sunshine.

Q

How do I know when my herbs need larger containers?

A

When roots begin to emerge through the drainage holes of its container, it is time to repot the herbs. Replace the potting mix; the organic material in the potting mix breaks down over time. Remove any plants with woody or thickened stems and replace them with new seeds or seedlings.

Q

Do herbs need fertilizer?

A

The short answer is yes. However, not all herbs have the same fertilizer needs. Herbs roughly fall into two groups. 1. Slow-growing herbs with small leaves or needles and fibrous, woody stems that are native to the mediterranean where they grow culinary lavender, month, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon and thyme. 2. Fast-growing herbs with larger, thinner leaves. These can be annuals such as basil, borage, cilantro, chervil and dill; bi-annual herbs such as parsley or perennials such as chives. Herbs in the first group generally need less fertilizer than herbs in the second group.

Q

What type of nutrients do herbs need?

A

Start out by planting herbs in healthy soil rich in organic matter. In addition, they will benefit from an organic complete, slow-release fertilizer containing equal amounts of macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A slow-release fertilizer is especially important if your garden has sandy soil because nutrients wash out quickly. To give fast-growing herbs that you harvest often an extra boost, you can also apply fish emulsion, an organic fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 4-1-1 or 5-1-1.

Q

How often should I fertilize my herbs?

A

The frequency of fertilization follows the growth pattern of the herbs. In soil of average fertility, it is usually sufficient to apply a balanced fertilizer in the spring when they break dormancy, or when the new growing season starts. For other herbs, a light monthly application of a slow-release complete fertilizer should be enough – unless the leaves start to look yellow, which may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. In that case, applying fish emulsion is a quick fix but before you reach for the fertilizer bottle, rule out that the yellowing of leaves is not caused by something else.

Q

How do I fertilize my herbs in a container?

A

Herbs grown in containers need fertilizer applications more often, because with frequent watering that container plants require, the fertilizer in the potting mix washes out more quickly. Just as with sandy soil, it is important to use slow-release fertilizer. The roots of container plants are in a confined space, unlike herbs grown in the garden or raised beds, which can lead to over fertilization if you are not careful. Organic fertilizers are recommended over synthetic which often contain a high level of salts that can build up in the container over time. To prevent this, it is best to use half the strength of the fertilizer amount specified on the label for any type of fertilizer.

Q

Is it possible to overfertilize herbs?

A

Adding too much fertilizer to herbs usually leads to an excess of nitrogen, which has undesirable results especially for slow-growing herbs. For basil and other thin-leaved herbs, the fast leaf growth induced by nitrogen is fine because you want your plants to be lush. For rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs however, rapid growth means that there is less concentration of essential oils causing the herbs to become less aromatic and have weaker flavor.

Q

How do I prepare garden soil before planting an herb garden?

A

Once you have picked the location for growing your herb garden, you will need to prepare the soil. If the soil is sandy or clay heavy, add plenty of compost. Even if your soil is in pretty good condition, working some compost into the soil will help provide nutrients to the herbs while they are growing.

Q

Can I harvest my herbs too often?

A

Many times, when a new gardener is starting an herb garden, they are afraid that harvesting the herbs frequently will hurt them. The opposite is true. Frequent harvesting of herbs will result in the herb plant producing more and more foliage, which increases the amount you are able to harvest. At the end of the season, you can dry or freeze your herb harvest to enjoy home grown herbs all year long.

Q

I don’t have a good sunny spot outdoors for my herb garden, what can I do?

A

If your yard is mostly shaded, there is not much you can do to change that, but you can pick shade friendly herbs. Parsley, sweet woodruff and mint are good examples of herbs that don’t require as much light. If you are growing plants in low light, manage your expectations. Your herbs will grow but will be slow and results less impressive.

Q

My container soil is staying wet, what do I do?

A

Choose a container that allow for water to drain. If you over water or if it rains too much a good pot will allow the water to flow to the bottom without soaking and rotting the roots of your plants. You can use rocks or pottery shards to fill the bottom of the container to help with drainage. This applies outdoors too. If your herbs constantly have wet feet, they won’t thrive. Either plan when planting your garden and add some sand for drainage or pick plants that don’t mind wet roots as much.

Q

My herbs plants are going to seed, why?

A

The short answer is you are not pruning enough. To prevent rapid growth and encourage a bushy habit, be sure to prune your herb plants regularly. The more you pick off your stems and leaves the longer your herb plant will remain in its production cycle. If you start to see flower heads, snip them right away. When you fail to cut back the plant, it is likely to go to seed and complete its lifecycle. Once that happens, many plants die back. Keep cutting and pinching back flowers to prevent this from happening.

Q

Should I throw away my seeds on their expiration date?

A

Seeds do not have an expiration date, rather they are a sell by date just like food. The dates on seed packages are guidelines to help you know when your seeds are getting old, but it does not mean you need to toss them. Every plant is different. Some seeds last longer than others. Most seeds, if kept cool and dry, will last 2 – 3 years. If you are unsure test them out by growing microgreens.

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